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I tried to start my 2zz swap for the first time. Turn key.. nothing. Check wires. Nothing. Check to see if I got the ECU connectors all the way in.. yep.. just missed the 3 connectors from the engine harness to the body. Then it started right up.. time to get ready for the first drive.
 

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A friend and I made a new battery box using OEM bolt mounts for a small LifeP04 battery. We still need to finish the hold down. Made from Aluminum and welded together. I finally have something presentable to hold the battery.
 

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7FCCDA20-00F6-4982-A0EA-297EDCD0B16A.jpg

Wire brushed the whole thing. Gotta get all the dust off. I’ll do that after the fluid is changed and I have all the parts put in. I also pulled off my throw out bearing.
 

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Today I rubbed my car for good luck.
I remembered something I did to my car fairly recently. My H&T endlinks finally wore out the Teflon bearing race. I decided long ago that I would upgrade to qa1 components if this day came near. So I choose the saner setup and put a high thrust load link on the bottom with high angle link on the top.
IMG_3632.jpg
here is the old with the new but untrimmed components assembled. You need various taps and dies to make this all work out properly. The first step is actually to measure the size of the hole in your bar and then order the same ID endlink.
IMG_3634.jpg
The taps and dies you'll need will correspond to the whether it is a metric or standard size hole. Hope this makes non-sense. :bi_polo:
IMG_3635.jpg
Done. Correctly oriented, the link bracket gibbles tuck into the groove of the arm stamping.
I measured effect on full droop left/right bar engagement before and after, both hubs straight and at full lock. Results indicated that at full droop the opposite side compressed under sway bar tension approximately 1" later and to much less effect with the saner setup.
I'm pretty much as stiff as you can go with off-the-shelf oem style components. Trd comp springs, koni and whiteline in the front.
 

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I haven't posted in here a long while, but i guess i sanded down some filler on the front fenders. a few or two ago, i installed a spoiler, and last week, i'd picked it up from the shop that did my rear main seal, ACT clutch, resurfaced flywheel, drilled and slotted rotors, pads, my 4 wheel alignment.

3/11/2019, I spun out for the first time. It's a rite of passage I guess for a mid engine car.
 

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Maintenance List

It's been a while, so here's my list.

Changed oil, sent it to Blackstone, got clean bill of health.

Had a bad misfire and threw a P0303 Cylinder 3 on the highway. Limped home, swapped coil packs with cylinder 2, code changed to cylinder two. Threw a coil pack I had bought earlier at LKQ on, reset code. All is good. A persistent noise I was getting in the lower end (90.1) of my FM radio band seemed to go away as well. Anybody think a failing coil pack could lead to FM radio noise?

Flushed and filled power steering hydraulic system with Ravenol E-PSF I ordered off Amazon. Old fluid was black as tar, so I'm betting it was still original. One bottle did the whole thing. Really easy process, and steering feels great (probably placebo effect, I know).

I'm at about 17,000 miles on my "refreshed" 1zz and the oil consumption is still nil and she's running strong. Third oil change after refresh is just around the corner, and a sample will be outbound to the alchemists at Blackstone. They've been recommending 5000 mile oil change interval based on Mobil1 usage and what they've been seeing in my samples.

Installed new leather seat skins from Lseat.com (no affiliation). Not a super hard install, just needed some patience and used wire ties instead of hog ring clips like someone on Spyderchat recommended. Worked great. Tried to replicate color combination of original cloth seats, because all black seats make the interior look like a dark cavern. Here's a good illustration of the difference. The wrinkles are almost gone after a few weeks.

HybridInterior.jpg
 

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Had a bad misfire and threw a P0303 Cylinder 3 on the highway. Limped home, swapped coil packs with cylinder 2, code changed to cylinder two. Threw a coil pack I had bought earlier at LKQ on, reset code. All is good. A persistent noise I was getting in the lower end (90.1) of my FM radio band seemed to go away as well. Anybody think a failing coil pack could lead to FM radio noise?
Yes...
 

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Went over car, checked all , needed new battery. ( oil/filter always done when put away in Winter )
Filled tires to spec.

Battery on the weak side when tested... Replaced with a new Bosch 51.

BTW, tested drain when changing battery, It draws 20-24 ma after first hook up and all computers/etc have initialized... about triple during initialization.
Running , alt put out 14.25 under high idle , so all good there too.

Wife is happy it's all ready, she wanted it done last month...
 

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Pulled the OBD port connector out of the underdash to plug the bluetooth dongle in...then zip-tied the whole thing up underneath...using, of course, the original port's cutout.

Because doing it that way is a LOT better than stepping on the thing (more) while entering and exiting!
 

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Pulled the OBD port connector out of the underdash to plug the bluetooth dongle in...then zip-tied the whole thing up underneath...using, of course, the original port's cutout.

Because doing it that way is a LOT better than stepping on the thing (more) while entering and exiting!
Some OBD II Bluetooth dongles do drain the battery over time, keep that in mind.

Also hi Piloter!
 

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After returning from my trip the Spyder developed a stumbling and hesitation when first started. The shifting was also not quite as smooth as it was when I first installed the spherical bearings a little over a month ago.

So, yesterday, I dove in and cleaned the MAF. Not quite so easy as it sounds because my intake is behind the battery so that must come out to get to it easily. The MAF did not appear to be excessively dirty but I sprayed it good with CRC MAF cleaner and reinstalled it. While I was under there, I removed the washers from the shifter bearings and applied a generous amount of Loctite Anti-Seize to both bearings.

Today, I made a run to a couple stores and I am happy to report that the car no longer stumbles but instead gallops off happily and shifts like silk. It is nice when it is just a simple fix or two that only takes a few minutes.
 

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No issues on the OBD dongle killing the battery (car usually sits all week) or flashing any lights. I got the BAFX Android one which seems to be using a legitimate chipset and has some good product support.

...And hi Halo! I knew you moved over here but it's awesome to see you still around.

Today's little tweaks in progress: Dev's sills / Takuban's stickers, Zaino Z-14 on the headlights. Lenses in good shape, just yellow/green. ALMOST pulled the trigger on a set of 03 lights from a junkyard with shot lenses but see: not wanting to spend huge money or have a high-impact project. (no more projectors, dammit! ...at least not anytime soon.)
Tomorrow's little tweak (if time): Polish off Zaino. Left leather handle insert & door handle plate back on, feed all leather (again) with Chamberlain's #3. Good stuff. Vac interior, redo all plastics with Meguiar's Back To Black (not...back in black, although that may be playing at the time. :darkness:).
Sunday's little tweak (if time): Adjust clutch.
Monday's little tweak (if time): Fabricate top strap.

Pending arrival: Dev's door bushings, one of Richy's last pull plates, proper GL4 Amsoil. Probably next weekend.

This car is oddly satisfying to work on. As a small-production, everything was built to a good quality standard for assembly. As a well-cared-for example, nothing has been rusted shut / age&exposure disintegrated. Everything is ridiculously accessible except the throttle body and wrangling the RTSB and factory X back together. These little repair projects are not only feasible but straightforward and dare I say easy. No recourse to the BGB needed. No plastic fasteners snapping at the slightest provocation. No untorque-to-yield bolts. Nothing hidden behind layers and layers of obtuse chicanery.

Yet.
 

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No issues on the OBD dongle killing the battery (car usually sits all week) or flashing any lights. I got the BAFX Android one which seems to be using a legitimate chipset and has some good product support.

...And hi Halo! I knew you moved over here but it's awesome to see you still around.

Today's little tweaks in progress: Dev's sills / Takuban's stickers, Zaino Z-14 on the headlights. Lenses in good shape, just yellow/green. ALMOST pulled the trigger on a set of 03 lights from a junkyard with shot lenses but see: not wanting to spend huge money or have a high-impact project. (no more projectors, dammit! ...at least not anytime soon.)
Tomorrow's little tweak (if time): Polish off Zaino. Left leather handle insert & door handle plate back on, feed all leather (again) with Chamberlain's #3. Good stuff. Vac interior, redo all plastics with Meguiar's Back To Black (not...back in black, although that may be playing at the time. :darkness:).
Sunday's little tweak (if time): Adjust clutch.
Monday's little tweak (if time): Fabricate top strap.

Pending arrival: Dev's door bushings, one of Richy's last pull plates, proper GL4 Amsoil. Probably next weekend.

This car is oddly satisfying to work on. As a small-production, everything was built to a good quality standard for assembly. As a well-cared-for example, nothing has been rusted shut / age&exposure disintegrated. Everything is ridiculously accessible except the throttle body and wrangling the RTSB and factory X back together. These little repair projects are not only feasible but straightforward and dare I say easy. No recourse to the BGB needed. No plastic fasteners snapping at the slightest provocation. No untorque-to-yield bolts. Nothing hidden behind layers and layers of obtuse chicanery.

Yet.
Hey buddy! Good to see you as well. BAFX is a legit OBD II dongle, so that's excellent.

03 headlights have badass projectors in them, throw some H7 HIDs in them and space the factory clear lens forward a bit and you have output rivaling many factory HID setups.

 

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Replaced my blown front koni inserts (finally!).
I knew it was bad... But one of the dead ones drops into the cylinder with the slightest push and makes no attempt to come back out. We even took the strut assembly part with no spring compressor, as there was no tension in the spring when we removed it. Really bad.
Fixed a leak on the transmission, topped off the oil.
Installed speed bleeders on all 4 corners and clutch slave. Bled everything. Clutch fluid was terrible... Definitely hasn't been serviced in years, if ever.
Removed a defective and parasitic aftermarket alternator (thanks O'Reillys 🙄) and replaced it with a used OEM from MikeV (thanks Mike!). Aftermarket one whined like it was under max load since the day I installed it. It was in for 5 months and sound never got better. Constant 14+ volts but over the last 2 months the top end started to feel really flat, and battery light would occasionally flicker around 8000rpm. All symptoms gone.... And the car is much more responsive across the board. I didn't realize how much power it was sapping.
Replaced both idler pullies... They were worn out.
Installed a LightinSight. I no longer have to crane to see traffic lights! Will post that review tomorrow.

Feels like a whole different car now.
 
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