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Removed the front bumper, both headlamps and started removing the tail lamps from my blown motor project.
Updating the front end and just getting ready to pull the motor&trans from the car.
 

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New owner here and I just put some new wheels on 🤓
SSR SP1 on some federal evoluzion st1s 215/45 all around. Little bit of poke on the fronts but some negative camber should fix that
16x7.5 +39
16x8 +32
 

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Cap's MAF mod. Backside of motor dirtier than my mind. Some...slight mishaps along the way. Couldn't get the old seals out (only had a dental pick handy, and it was far too long) so now of course there's hard starting because everything is leaking. Still, first time working with a non-carburated fuel system and despite the spilling amount being considerably more than expected, nothing big enough to smell after plenty of high-RPM excursions on scorching-hot days.

Boy that's a miracle mod. The gripes about fuel cut weirdnesses when lifting at ~3500 just means that now there's pop & crackle at ~2500 and ~3500 (and, eventually, a backfire) from that ridiculous exhaust setup. This means people tailgate me way less on the new commute, so win/win.

Some weekend when it's not 90 out I'll go back in with a mirror and a shorter pick and get those ()@()*# seals out and put the new ones in.

Next big project--MWR cruise control installed. I have a ~6 hour one way trip to make in early August, so it'd be nice to have that done before then. See--90 degree weekends.
 

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MWR cruise control installed except the handbrake switch. Got plenty tired of pulling the seats and being upside down in the parking lot in 90 degree weather. Works flawlessly out of the box. Still have to get the airbag out of the wheel to properly mount the module but apart from that it's all good.
 

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C'mon, isn't anybody still working on stuff?

C's short shifter replica installed, cage cut (with the wrong tools, at great length), heavy-ass aspirational six-speed knob in place. Some lithium grease in there, a whole lot more sprayed TriFlow. Changed out old brass no-grease-left shifter cable bushings for CRW PFTE spherical and the proper lithium stuff.. Had to extensively file the lower one even after completely cleaning the ring -- just a few thousandths but enough to be a nuisance. Old ones were held in with snap rings, which were hurled far away with extreme prejudice. Have the replacement for the square brass shift fork bushing but....not this time. Hit everything with lots of silicone spray lube while I was back there. Shifting is WAY improved from the rubbery wobbly approximational grinding it used to be. Reverse still requires a solid shove and first requires, every now and again, more force than usual after a run up and down. Probably the brass bushing.

....Some other weekend.

Put in the Knobmeister visor blockoffs, installed the "have you hugged a curve today" license plate frame, hit all the exterior trim and frunk stuff with Meguiar's Ultimate Black Whatever, which does a pretty good job for a few weeks. Having the surround would be nice but not $400 of nice. Thorough rinse/soap/rinse/prewax/wax/detailer spray last weekend, fun without a hose and only buckets of water to the parking lot. Wheels still disasters of peeling paint, that shit's sharp.

Yellow injectors are leaking, causing hard starting. Had the dealership R&R the new seals...a steal for an hour of labor, even if it took them a week (during which time I had a loaner Camry hybrid...nice transport pod, radar cruise control is beautiful.). No dice, still problematic. Will probably have to take back in because having them do it beats the hell out of me having to do it and buying more injectors piecemeal. Smelling fuel and seeing a solid 5 mpg decrease ain't great.
 

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Injectors also. Swapped in a different set of yellows on my 2ZZ and my fuel trims at idle have gone from -20 to -5 now. Exhaust smells normal again too, guess this proves I did have (a) leaking injector(s).
 

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It's strange to hear that fuel leaking out of the injectors (thus meaning less gets actually used than planned) would cause a more NEGATIVE fuel trim. I was under the impression that this would've translated to a positive fuel trim.

Installed the PPE intake. It's audible mostly at idle and extremely low revs, past that I really don't hear a difference until 4k. The throttle response is UNREAL. Thought it was quick before, this is now approaching what's heard from bikes in lower gears. Midrange torque just keeps picking up. Steering is practically telepathic; now speed is too.

For those intrepid souls combining the MAF mod with an aftermarket (proper) CAI -- I'm using the McMaster-Carr washer and the same (at least 2) leaking injectors with the PPE intake and observe that my LTFTs are IDENTICAL to the configuration with said washer and the factory airbox, and those LTFTs are around -15 at highway speeds.

This is a datum that to my knowledge has not been previously enumerated.
 

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In my case I believe the injector(s) at fault were leaking into the engine, not like a bad injector seal would let fuel out of the system altogether. I suspect it was just one leaking heavily, causing the ECU to lean out the rest to make the composite fuel trim correct.

Today I also swapped out my Cobb/amsoil intake for an eBay special. 76mm Chinesium MAF pipe and no name dry filter. Reset the ECU so it can relearn trims. Now I can finally play with MAF spacers and different injector sizes to see if a 2ZZ MAF mod is possible. With the Cobb I think the vanes kept the airflow too laminar. Spacing had nearly no discernable effect on fuel trims.
 

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Have not been bothered to mess with spacers as suggested previously -- should fix fueling first. Also will need new longer MAF screws once again. Have other priorities....see: fueling.

Managed to get a refund via Amazon for the leaking injectors after the vendor CBA answering my email through them. Still to go, asking them nicely about reimbursement for dealership diagnostic time. If that happens, that'll go straight to MWR for a set of known-good-DAMMIT yellows and etc.

Had the clutch fluid changed. Thought extensively about doing it myself, did all the research. No compressor, no jack and not allowed to get one, no garage, low budget etc, somewhat low buyin for being bleeder-buddy from Lady. Figured by the time I had decent brake fluid and a pump bleeder that wasn't complete ass I'd be into the job for about 85% of what the dealership wanted anyway. Old fluid was as black as I wish the trim still was. Clutch now engages a little more predictably -- but seems to engage at a different point for every gear.

That didn't do anything for the grind into fast third or fifth. Did actually FIND the square brass bastard bushing. There's considerable wobble (quarter-inch each way) but R&R will have to wait for a nice weekend because absolutely CANNOT be without transportation if something goes awry.

Been raining pretty hard here. Found out that the window seals on the soft top are age-cracked and crappy the hard way. There's a part number for weatherstripping, which can still be had, but a tube of Shin-Etsu grease and sitting open for about the ~45m drive home fixed the seals right up and rendered the interior amazingly dry again. That stuff is Good Stuff. Will apply some to the door seals this weekend for sure.

Also discovered that the hideaway sub was pretty badly effed, terrible distortion above about 10% gain - in other words to the point where ANYTHING was even audible from it. Tried high and low inputs alike, higher preamp and putting the fader mostly rear to boost the signal into the sub, no dice. Just shot. The upside of that is that an unexpected happening at work gave me enough Crutchfield credit to walk away with a set of Focal 165s (right door speaker fuzzing out, it's time) and a modest amp. From another project I have a Boss monoblock amp and a 6" subwoofer.

While I want bass I'm not willing to utterly annihilate the cubbies, the UD sub is still stupid-rare (and I have NO idea how it plays with the cruise control), and this all-in-one crap is also significantly more expensive than "free". As it turns out -- the TS calculations for the 6" sub and the dimensions available for half the cubby (an angled, sealed box) are a pretty perfect match that can be done with one sheet of MDF and a cut planner. Too bad the Home Depot saw was out of commission and 9 rip cuts on three-quarter would be a non-starter in a second-story apartment on a courtyard.

Weekend projects (weather cooperating): brass square bushing to poly bushing, weatherstripping care & feeding. Building the sub enclosure (HD saw cooperating!) and trying to figure out some way to test it. I do have a hacked-up X360 adapter that was powering the sub & amp from house AC, so that might help. (Don't ask...)

The good news is that all the wiring for power has already been done and all the fusing is just fine for the absolute max loads the system could run at. It'll be simple enough to throw some RCA cables down through the center from HU preout to SW amp in. Later -- because, frankly, the hell with mounting amps under the seats IN A CONVERTIBLE or under the dash because HEAVY AND ENOUGH ALREADY THERE -- I'll put the main amp back there as well. Run the stock speaker outs as high level inputs through the tunnel, run proper wiring either back through the tunnel (RF choke, RF choke, RF choke...) or under the sills and get to the doors eventually. Dynamat, window regulator greasing, all the other fun stuff that'll probably be waiting for next spring.

Won't win any SPL competitions but as long as I can be a little obnoxious at lights, life's good.

Plenty to do IF the weather cooperates.
 

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Interesting. The vendor contacted me to explain that if they'd been sitting some time prior to install, the chemicals used might gunk up and cause leaks...

(funny, the old Witchhunter ones didn't have that problem)

...but will deal with them under warranty.

Things I did today -- put a crapton of stock parts in the FS section by way of cleaning out the closet.
 
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