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Discussion Starter #1
So I posted my troubles in another thread and Cap has asked me to start my own and go from there.

Where to begin... I bought my black mr2 spyder with turbo kit included for 4k with 80k miles on it. At first glance things seem to be good. No wrecks, good paint, cold ac... Then comes the engine and the turbo kit that was placed in the car. Now just to let everyone know, I LIKE TO TROUBLESHOOT problems and I have seen a few guys get flamed over purchasing a Spyder with a ghetto turbo kit. My only concerns about the vehicle was the chassis. Straight and clean. I know that Cap wanted some specific about my car but unfortunately the guy that had it last knew nothing... So from what I can actually see here is what I have without tearing the car down:

Stock 1zz engine
Injectors - No idea
Fuel Pump - No idea
AEM piggy back - I forget the model number but it's the 6 and not the 8 version.
Stock plugs - starting to get a little black but still fire.
Garret Turbo but I can't see the AR or serial on it.
Custom inter-cooler piping... when you see the pictures you'll understand.
Custom Turbo exhaust manifold with dual cat bungs - Appears to be the standard or similar to some kits i have seen.
Custom exhaust... Weird toilet flush design. Again the pictures will explain.
Intake is connected directly to the turbo inlet.


So this is where I start to notice some strange things as if I hadn't already. It appears that I also have a wideband 02 sensor connected to my exhaust but it is not connected to anything... I know that the AEM can be hooked up to the sensor via some additional module or controller. I have not seen this additional controller. Also vacuum lines are all over the place and "T"'d all around. I can't see where they end up as it is behind the motor. I assume there are some vacuum connections off the throttle body.

So after browsing all of that I immediately scoured the internet for the Spyder FSM (I am originally a nissan guy and I hear that we are the only ones to use the FSM acronym) and started to browse. The car is very easy to break down, I mean there just isn't that much to it. Reminds me of my 240sx. So lets get on with my issues:

First thing is first, my car is bleeding... I can't seem to find out where but I have a pretty good idea that it's severe turbo blow by. I pulled the intake of and the shaft was able to move. I know there should be some play and I have had the bad luck of feeling the shaft of a blown turbo... Remind me not to use play, shaft and blown in another car related sentence... So I figure the turbo may be the cause of the oil leak. If the car sits, no oil leaks out, once i start to drive and especially boost, then it starts to dribble out. There was also oil in the intake when i pulled it off.

So I got some major leads there. Anything else I should check? I am going to pull the car into the garage for an extended break down and can check things on the way.

Couple of other things. I DL'd the software for the AEM controller but it appears that the firmware on the controller is too old for the software and needs to be updated. I have seen that only shops can update firmware. Any truth to this?

I think that's about it for now. I have questions about performance mods but I want to troubleshoot the issues I have and move on to that later.

Pictures on the way, maybe videos... can we link videos?

Anxious to hear questions and comments!

Thanks for reading guys

SNay
 

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Don't know If I said this.. but Welcome to Spyderchat..

GOOD PRICE ON THE CAR.. that is the Sort of deal I'm looking for.. ( Only a SMT )..

Wonder if you Might want to Remove the Turbo.. Then check out the Oil Consumption issue.. and take this time to Clean up the Engine Bay. Then put a Replacement turbo back on..


Here is a Picture to get you Familiar with the Engine..

Stock Injectors are Green.. I would think you have Something Else..

The Lib Files have the ECU pinouts..

Compression Check will give a good Status Check on the Engines Health..

Pics are good.. There is a How To.. Basically load the Pic to Photobucket then link it in the Post..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #4
As you can see from the pics it was a ghetto setup but the parts weren't all that bad. You can really see the mess of lines that I will have to deal with. I am going to check the injector color now so I should have that info.

Will follow up.
 

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Yep.. works good..

The Spyder has a Fueling System like a V6.. ( Two Banks ) but it only has 4 Cylinders.. so they are grouped as One and Four, Two and Three..

Your O2's are not Separated enough from the Common Gas Stream.. you might get a Fighting between the Two Fueling Banks.. As you get more Familuar with the Car/ECU, you Might want to go to a Single O2 System ( Split the Signal ).. or mod the Header to place the O2 Closer to the Exhaust Port .. You'll know when the Fuel Trims start Going in Different Directions from each other..

Pic of the Wiring Job of the Piggy would also be nice..

I have a WB wired to a Gauge on the Dash.. it helps me see what the ECU is thinking..

Mine is Before the Main Cat.. so I get the 'Dither' of the AFR Swings the ECU Does for feeding the Main Cat fuel and Air..

When the Dithering is there, the ECU is in Closed Loop
When the Dithering Stops.. the ECU is in Open Loop..
And then I get to Watch the Mixtures.. something to do on Long Drives..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I thought I would just mosey on out to the car and pull one of the injector connectors off to take a look at the color. Low and behold I was unable to remove the connector. I know there is a clip and I can see it but I can't tell which way to pop it. looks like towards the head but there isn't any room. I check my FSM and I got this for removal procedures:

5. REMOVE INJECTORS
(a) Disconnect the 4 injector connectors.

Thanks Toyota!

Any tips on removing them?
 

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Set out to take a Pic.. NOPE..

You Squeeze the Connector on the Side.. that will release the Clip in the Front.. you can see the Retainer Clip Arm on the Back.. When you Squeeze that, it will Pivot In the Middle, rotating the Clip off the Injector.. allowing you to remove it..

Looks like your Injectors are Black.. I think that means they could be Anything..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Here are the pics of the ecu wiring. It appears that they used the ecu adapter to keep it nice and clean! go go previous owner. Should be easy to unclip, pull out and and check that the connections are correct.

Side note: I have also read that when the aem piggy back is updated that the current fuel maps and any other programmed material on the piggy back gets wiped... hopefully they can make a back up then firmware upgrade it.

Once I get the car into the garage I will be able to break it down more. It's just so damn hot in Houston right now. I even wait till night and I still sweat my a$$ off.



 

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Discussion Starter #10
So I ran by autozone and picked up the $250 actron auto scanner plus... of course I am borrowing it. Gonna return to get that money right back. Soo on with the codes:

P0300 - Random - Multiple Misfires
P0302 - Cyl 2 misfire
P0303 - Cyl 3 misfire
P0304 - Cyl 4 misfire
P0172 - Bank 1 too rich
P0175 - Bank 2 too rich

Well everything seems to be pointing to "Too Rich".

I drove around to check out the long fuel trims and as i watched while driving they continued to stay at -45.3 and didnt really move. Maybe a few blips to -38.9 but that was it. It also stated that both banks were in closed loop and I never saw them open. Now I know the AEM gets in there to fake out the ecu on a couple of things and I would believe this to be one of them. So I have many more tuning questions and as soon as I pull out the aem box to go get it flashed, I am hoping the tuner will be able to shed some light on it.

SNay
 
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