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If you've ever thought about making a custom bike rack or small hitch using the factory tow points, you know that Toyota chose a horrendously rare thread pitch, which makes finding off the shelf threaded rod for it nearly impossible.

I've found it! I can confirm that this does fit and the nuts linked below also work well!

M22x2.0 is what you want. I ended up getting 350mm length, which looks to be plenty for mounting a square tube for a small hitch. 300mm would also probably work for that. Best to measure for yourself if you're thinking about doing this.



Finding the nuts is a lot easier


Hope this helps someone!
 

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Nice find! I did a group buy a while ago making rods from 7/8 diameter steel. This is much easier! I did like the large diameter on the shank, to closely match the hole through the steel bumper. Mine bears on the steel bumper when I load up the carrier with heavy crap. So I ordered a pair of these just to play with. I’m thinking a piece of pipe with the right ID to slip over these would allow them to bear on the bumper pass-though hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I’m thinking a piece of pipe with the right ID to slip over these would allow them to bear on the bumper pass-though hole.
I'm thinking the same thing; I'll update if I find a pipe with the perfect fit!
 

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If you've ever thought about making a custom bike rack or small hitch using the factory tow points, you know that Toyota chose a horrendously rare thread pitch, which makes finding off the shelf threaded rod for it nearly impossible.

I've found it! I can confirm that this does fit and the nuts linked below also work well!

M22x2.0 is what you want. I ended up getting 350mm length, which looks to be plenty for mounting a square tube for a small hitch. 300mm would also probably work for that. Best to measure for yourself if you're thinking about doing this.

http://[URL]https://www.ebay.com/itm/M22x1-5-M24x2-Right-Fine-Threaded-Rod-Screw-100-to-600mm-304-Stainless-steel/293103959497?var=591965754847&_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item443e5b7dc9:m:mmQ10gip6Mq1tgXpkFH1jVQ&enc=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&checksum=2931039594977a38666a019a49dbb4aed59432d30856
[/URL]


Finding the nuts is a lot easier

[/URL]

Hope this helps someone!
If you've ever thought about making a custom bike rack or small hitch using the factory tow points, you know that Toyota chose a horrendously rare thread pitch, which makes finding off the shelf threaded rod for it nearly impossible.

I've found it! I can confirm that this does fit and the nuts linked below also work well!

M22x2.0 is what you want. I ended up getting 350mm length, which looks to be plenty for mounting a square tube for a small hitch. 300mm would also probably work for that. Best to measure for yourself if you're thinking about doing this.



Finding the nuts is a lot easier


Hope this helps someone!
If you've ever thought about making a custom bike rack or small hitch using the factory tow points, you know that Toyota chose a horrendously rare thread pitch, which makes finding off the shelf threaded rod for it nearly impossible.

I've found it! I can confirm that this does fit and the nuts linked below also work well!

M22x2.0 is what you want. I ended up getting 350mm length, which looks to be plenty for mounting a square tube for a small hitch. 300mm would also probably work for that. Best to measure for yourself if you're thinking about doing this.



Finding the nuts is a lot easier


Hope this helps someone!

Good find. The threaded rods you found are 304 stainless, probably with cut threads. 304 is great in corrosion resistance but not so good in strength. The loaded bike rack will bounce up and down on the rods as you drive, causing an oscillating load on the rods. Most bolt failures are from fatigue so the trick is to put a sleeve over it which will take the bending load off the rods and use the rods for mostly for preloading the sleeve. If the sleeve is much stiffer in bending than the threaded rod, it will take most of the bending load. Other posts have suggested using a sleeve and they're on the right track. One suggestion was to use a 1-1/4 OD x 7/8 ID steel tube as the sleeve. This will probably work fine. There's a 1-1/2" flat washer welded to the access hole, likely there to take any radial load on the tow bolt. On my Spyder, the welds stick up a bit and if the sleeve doesn't sit flat, will need to be ground flat. Another way to make the sleeve is to use a 2" OD x 1" ID aluminum tube, available from EBay


I prefer the latter since it will contact the entire area of the welded washer, even overhanging it a bit, is stiffer in bending so will take even more bending load off the bolt.

I have designed my rack but haven't built it yet, for a single 50 lb Ebike I have on order. When it gets here, I'll tweak the design to minimize the overhang. The design doesn't use a purchased rack, rather will be all home made using 3/4 oak and 1x2 aluminum bar stock. I'll post some pix later.

BTW, you can get full height M22x2.0 nuts from McMaster Carr


The flat washer welded to the tow bolt hole is there to take any radial load off the bolt if it bends that far, around 1/8" max. It would be nice to put a through hole sleeve around the bolt to minimize bending but when I screwed in my tow bolt, it wasn't centered and was nearly in contact at the bottom. I tried to bend the anchor nut up by jacking up on the tow bolt but even with the wheel nearly off the ground, it didn't budge. Though it's there primarily for axial load, that nut is pretty solid in bending too. You could grind the washer hole out but with a well preloaded outer sleeve, the friction force should take all the shear force and the threaded rod will be happy.
 

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Steve Penatello is making the hitch adapters now. (Mr2spydercrew.com). I’m pretty sure he would sell you some 12“ long rods to make your project. He uses 7/8 diameter steel so it’s a close fit through the steel crash bumper. The ends are threaded for 1 inch only. You could grind out the eccentric hole in your bumper to allow the rod to rest on the bottom of the pass-through hole.
 

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Good find. The threaded rods you found are 304 stainless, probably with cut threads. 304 is great in corrosion resistance but not so good in strength. The loaded bike rack will bounce up and down on the rods as you drive, causing an oscillating load on the rods. Most bolt failures are from fatigue so the trick is to put a sleeve over it which will take the bending load off the rods and use the rods for mostly for preloading the sleeve. If the sleeve is much stiffer in bending than the threaded rod, it will take most of the bending load. Other posts have suggested using a sleeve and they're on the right track. One suggestion was to use a 1-1/4 OD x 7/8 ID steel tube as the sleeve. This will probably work fine. There's a 1-1/2" flat washer welded to the access hole, likely there to take any radial load on the tow bolt. On my Spyder, the welds stick up a bit and if the sleeve doesn't sit flat, will need to be ground flat. Another way to make the sleeve is to use a 2" OD x 1" ID aluminum tube, available from EBay


I prefer the latter since it will contact the entire area of the welded washer, even overhanging it a bit, is stiffer in bending so will take even more bending load off the bolt.

I have designed my rack but haven't built it yet, for a single 50 lb Ebike I have on order. When it gets here, I'll tweak the design to minimize the overhang. The design doesn't use a purchased rack, rather will be all home made using 3/4 oak and 1x2 aluminum bar stock. I'll post some pix later.

BTW, you can get full height M22x2.0 nuts from McMaster Carr


The flat washer welded to the tow bolt hole is there to take any radial load off the bolt if it bends that far, around 1/8" max. It would be nice to put a through hole sleeve around the bolt to minimize bending but when I screwed in my tow bolt, it wasn't centered and was nearly in contact at the bottom. I tried to bend the anchor nut up by jacking up on the tow bolt but even with the wheel nearly off the ground, it didn't budge. Though it's there primarily for axial load, that nut is pretty solid in bending too. You could grind the washer hole out but with a well preloaded outer sleeve, the friction force should take all the shear force and the threaded rod will be happy.
Here are the pix of my proposed design:

77152


77153


77154

The fore-aft brace shown between the frame tubes is a pair of wood pieces attached to a 3/8 rod that goes through the upper plastic grill and anchors to the steel brace at the rear of the engine compartment. I'll need to drill a hole through it to attach the rod. A right angle drill will probably be used. This arrangement will keep the bike rigid fore-aft and minimize additional bending loads on the lower bolts due to fore-aft oscillations.
 

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Steve Penatello is making the hitch adapters now. (Mr2spydercrew.com). I’m pretty sure he would sell you some 12“ long rods to make your project. He uses 7/8 diameter steel so it’s a close fit through the steel crash bumper. The ends are threaded for 1 inch only. You could grind out the eccentric hole in your bumper to allow the rod to rest on the bottom of the pass-through hole.
Thanks for the heads up. I already ordered the stainless threaded rods from EBay but they come from China and delivery is 2 months! If I het impatient, I'll comtact Steve.
 
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