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Discussion Starter #1
First of all, hello everyone and thank you for all the insight about our beloved Spyder. Being a newcomer, I've found every bit of information on here to be very helpful. With that being said, there's A LOT of information here that I'll need your opinions on a few things.

I recently purchased a bone-stock 2000 Spyder and I'm looking forward to making it better, and I don't know where to start. I'd like for the car to look as close to stock on the outside as possible, but have enhanced performance. The goal is to make it better than it came out of the factory, but not adding too much.

Things that I think can be improved on is the huge fender gap, the rather muted exhaust and intake note, and more rigidity. I'm not looking for outright speed at the moment so turbo charging or a 2zz swap is not on the table (not yet anyway).

Looking for your opinions on the steps I should take to reach my goals above. Where should I start and where should it be enough?

Looking forward to what everyone thinks :)
 

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Welcome to the club.

IMO:
1. Corky's breast plate
2. Front strut bar (I prefer TRD)
3. Front under brace (Ebay, Cusco, TRD etc.)
4. aftermarket Coil-over kit (BC, TEIN etc.)
5. Lightweight 15" or 16" staggered wheels (UL, Enkei etc.) and grippy tires
6. Polyurethane/TRD bushings (optional)
7. Exhaust header (PPE, CHE) midpipe (PPE, CHE) exhaust (CHE, HKS etc.)
And so on..

That is just my opinion, and that is what i would do if would buy another Spyder :)
Hopefully you have already deleted pre-cats?

Edit: I forgot the sway bars, CHE's are cheap and popular.
Well, i might have forgotten something else as well, but somebody else will point it out soon :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Welcome to the club.

IMO:
1. Corky's breast plate
2. Front strut bar (I prefer TRD)
3. Front under brace (Ebay, Cusco, TRD etc.)
4. aftermarket Coil-over kit (BC, TEIN etc.)
5. Lightweight 15" or 16" staggered wheels (UL, Enkei etc.) and grippy tires
6. Polyurethane/TRD bushings (optional)
7. Exhaust header (PPE, CHE) midpipe (PPE, CHE) exhaust (CHE, HKS etc.)
And so on..

That is just my opinion, and that is what i would do if would buy another Spyder :)
Hopefully you have already deleted pre-cats?

Edit: I forgot the sway bars, CHE's are cheap and popular.
Well, i might have forgotten something else as well, but somebody else will point it out soon :)
Interesting that the general consensus is to go with a breast plate first. I've read rave reviews about it. Do you really feel a significant improvement on rigidity with the breast plate?

Are the Ebay under braces pretty good? I assume we're talking about the TRD replica underbraces on Ebay right?

Coil overs is a bit too pricey for now, but I do want to lower it. Maybe KYB replacements with lowering springs. I was looking at Tanabe NF210's since they lower the car but not supposed to affect the ride quality too much. Woudl this be a good choice or just go for the sportier GF210's?
 

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I was really skeptical about the brest plate (corky's) and even after receiving mine it didnt look like it would do much but what a difference. It eliminated most of the "cowl shake" , I would strongly recommend. The front strut tower bar made the car corner a lot more stable, although I found it made the car not as smooth in bumpy corners (less give) I would recommend it also.
http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa480/kbranch4/100_0446.jpg
http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa480/kbranch4/100_0435.jpg
 

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The first thing I would do is get coil-overs. Not even a breast plate can deliver the enhanced feeling and performance of keeping pitch, dive, and roll in check, lowering the center of gravity, and drastically improving appearance. It's the best $1,000 you'll ever spend.

Also, tires are a given, right? All the mods in the world will do you little good if you are on all seasons.

Based on your expressed needs:
1. Coil-Overs
2. Sway Bars
3. Corky Breast Plate
4. Team moon Dual Tip Exhaust
5. TRD front tower bar
6. Che/Toms or 3.0 Rear member brace
7. Che/Toms or 3.0 Front member brace
8. TRD short shifter + brass shifter bushings
If you want to sacrifice some OEM appearance...
9. Harddog roll bar
10. Bucket seats
 

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What all these other guys said, except:
Don't bother with an inexpensive "header". Just gut the stock manifold. It's more rugged, works 99.99% as well as a cheap "header", looks stock, and it's almost free!


Edit:
You say you have a 2000. You need a chin spoiler.
A link about that is in the Guide, somewhere.
 

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HEY..

I resemble that remark.. :)

Cap
You better not be on all seasons if you are in California Cap. If you are, I'm going to find out where you live and perform a midnight operation on your MR2 to correct this transgression.
 

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The first thing I would do is get coil-overs. Not even a breast plate can deliver the enhanced feeling and performance of keeping pitch, dive, and roll in check, lowering the center of gravity, and drastically improving appearance. It's the best $1,000 you'll ever spend.

Also, tires are a given, right? All the mods in the world will do you little good if you are on all seasons.

Based on your expressed needs:
1. Coil-Overs
2. Sway Bars
3. Corky Breast Plate
4. Team moon Dual Tip Exhaust
5. TRD front tower bar
6. Che/Toms or 3.0 Rear member brace
7. Che/Toms or 3.0 Front member brace
8. TRD short shifter + brass shifter bushings
If you want to sacrifice some OEM appearance...
9. Harddog roll bar
10. Bucket seats
As much as I love arguing with SDSU:), he is giving you good advice. It is tempting to just put some sportier springs on the car--but you really should do struts at the same time--and then you are most of the way to a decent set of coilovers... just do it right the first time, you won't regret coilovers! And get a good alignment immediately... I would probably put the tires at #1 though... (and there is not a damn thing wrong with the stock wheels). The breast plate is great, the front strut tower brace is beneficial, the rear strut tower brace is redundant and pointless. The shifter may be personal--but I had a TRD Quickshifter, and frankly I liked my Monkey Wrench Racing short shifter better (it just felt like the gate was more naturally positioned--and it is 1/3rd of the price). I always like to plug the Che's/Topspeed exhausts--they sound nice, they are inexpensive, and of course Che is a member here--and a great guy who will take care of any issues you have.

You should keep checking the classified section here and see if you can make your money go further by purchasing some "previously enjoyed" items. It really can be a lot of fun stock--but tires and suspension will change your world:)
 

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About the coil-overs; there ain't no big difference in the price of BC Coil-overs (for example) and lowering springs with good shocks, and you will get many bonuses with aftermarket coil overs, such as adjustability of corner weights, ride height, shock stiffness, you can change springs (rates/lengths), you'll get adjustable camber plates and stiffer rear strut tops (sometimes, adjustable camber plates to rear as well). Among that, those are easier to install and get better looks :)

yes, i like TRD short shifter is very good addition as well - i don't have experiences of any other short shifters, i have used just standard stick and installed TRD on, which was easy job. And with TRD short throw shifter you'll get the stiffer bushings for the shifer plastic cage. Speed spurce (or similar) shifter cable bushings are easy to do as well, and help with feeling, and they don't cost much.
 

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Since from your comments you appear to be budget-minded, and I'd presume that your Spyder has some serious miles on it, my first thought goes to restoring suspension items that may have worn out (e.g., bushings). My next priority would be stiffening up the chassis. While I'm a big fan of Corky's Stage 3 setup - especially the MSMB - I'd say that his Breastplate would be at the top of the list for cost-effective individual pieces. Others here will have to chime in on which other individual pieces contribute the most to chassis stiffening. Oh, and somewhere in the mix are tower braces.
In terms of budgetary priorities, and somewhat depending upon how much life you still have in the shocks, you'll have to decide between suspension and tires. But I'll add this suggestion: the best of suspensions is not going to help keep you from a crash caused by crappy tires. And lowering for the sake of lowering and doing it with a crappy suspension is not a good idea. Focus on a good suspension setup and if it drops you nicely, all to the good. I'm extremely pleased with the Sportivo for everyday driving, but that's a bit pricy and hard to find. The problem I generally have with coil-over setups is that between the shock valving (and adjustment if they're adjustable), the spring rates (front & rear), the lowering and the sway bars, lots of variables that most guys haven't a clue how to optimize in combination.
After the tires and suspension I'd upgrade the sway bars, and I guess the Che's are a reasonable budget solution.
Keep in mind everyone has their own opinion on something like this, and while some of them may be rediculous and many - while valid - aren't what I'd choose, ultimately you need to wade through all the answers you're getting and decide for yourself. And if you pull the trigger, shell out the $$$$$ and then don't like the end result, you've nobody to blame but yourself.
 

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HEY..

I resemble that remark.. :)

Cap
Every time this topic comes up, I'm reminded of the photo showing where Cap gets his tires. I'm too lazy to search for it, but it shows him rolling a tire out of the woods. :lol:

Back on point. Corky's breast plate is the best bang for the buck. It is simple to install and the result is dramatic. Intakes and headers add sound, but next to no fury. Don't forget to gut your kitties.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks everyone for your replies! All great information.. so I think here's what I'll do:

1. OEM front spoiler
2. Breast plate
3. Front tower bar
4. Coilovers (are Megan's pretty good?)
5. Sway bars
6. Front under brace
7. Intake elbow mod
8. Exhaust

And see where I go from there.
 

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Thanks everyone for your replies! All great information.. so I think here's what I'll do:

1. OEM front spoiler
2. Breast plate
3. Front tower bar
4. Coilovers (are Megan's pretty good?)
5. Sway bars
6. Front under brace
7. Intake elbow mod
8. Exhaust

And see where I go from there.
Just keep in mind that there are good coilovers, and there are cheap coilovers, but I've not ever heard of any good ones that were also cheap (whether for the Spyder or for any other car for that matter). If you want cheap ones, keep your eyes open and look for someone getting rid of their cheap ones because they learned (the hard way) why they were cheap.
Here's a thread you may want to tune into:
http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?50606-Coilovers-(yes-I-know..-again..)
 

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Welcome to Spyderchat. If money is not really a major consideration I would

1. Stage III bracing from Corky and Company (you won't need anymore, ever IMO)
2. Light weight wheels and sticky rubber I would go something that would be the same on all corners just to keep things simple when it come to buying tires and wheels but there is big debate on what to do there.
3. Gut precats, PPE header or TRD header (I would stay away from anything less then $400 to if you replace just to avoid breaking and/or cracks to maintain reliability)
4. Coilovers or KONIs I also think that a anti-roll bars should be done at this point (suspension is a total system and should be changed together not in pieces, again IMO) your choice depending on money and comfort vs performance.
5. Clutch (ACT, Fadanza, Center Force, etc) some light weight fly wheel (Fadanza, Monkey Wench Racing, Etc) short throw shifter and brass or aluminum cable bushings (I would go TRD with out looking back for the short throw shifter and not just the stick replacement type then whatever for the bushings)
6. I think that you should just enjoy your new toy. I LOVE my Spyder even more than I love my crazy trick MKII just because I dove for a year and then modified it.
7. Remember that all we can offer is our thoughts and it is really how you like to drive and what YOU want your car to be. Then go from there based on budget and your goals.
8. THEN A BIG THING TO REMEMBER IS WHEN YOU CHANGE SOMETHING, SOMETHING ELSE GETS WORSE. Sorry for yelling but I have learned so many times that anytime you modify a car in one area you make it worse in some other. An example is changing the clutch and flywheel it might be more fun to drive at speed but clunky at slow speed.

Again welcome to the board and have fun

Chris
 
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