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180 off? Is the engine toast now?

6.9K views 19 replies 10 participants last post by  carlbecker  
#1 ·
Replaced valve seals according to the great instructions in this post http://spyderchat.com/forums/showth...forums/showthread.php?38510-Replacing-the-Valve-Oil-Seals&highlight=stuck+valve .... got everything back together, made sure the chain and sprockets went back in their proper places and everything. Went to crank the motor, and several bad sounds and a backfire or two later, she won't start.

Took everything back apart, and when the cams came off we noticed one of the exhaust valves on one of the cylinders was stuck down and that piston was in the up position. Now, when we turn the motor over we are only able to get 1/4 revolution in either direction. It turns easily then just stops. I'm afraid something really bad happened but I'm hoping it's something simple (please... let it be something simple).

Could we have gotten the timing 180 off? My experience is with older v-8's, but the backfire and lack of starting sounded like it was 180 off. And if that's the case with these motors, what kind of damage could have been done? An old v-8 no biggie, but these little jobs are different... please help! Thanks everyone :)
 
#2 ·
Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if the piston is up and the exhaust valve stuck down, it sounds like a bent valve. That and you can only turn the crank a 1/4 revolution. Engine may not be total toast, but head will need to come off. Pistons head may not be damaged to badly, be glad you were only cranking it over. Had a cam belt let go on one car and bent every valve. Best of luck and wishing minimal damage. Others more knowledgeable on VTEC systems can probably tell you better what went wrong.
 
#3 ·
Triz had one of his cams times 180 degrees out on his 2ZZ and got away with no damage but the fact that the motor will only turn a few degrees either way before it stops sounds like you have a valve interference problem. As wylde said, with any luck it will just mean replacing a valve. Pull the head back off and hope for the best.
 
#6 ·
If I recall correctly, the OEM head bolts (studs) are one-use-only. They are designed to stretch when the head bolts are torqued, and thus cannot be reused. I don't know about the ARP (MWR) bolts. Check into this matter before replacing the head.
The ARP/MWR are reusable. Well worth it. Only wish I would have done it earlier. Plus you torque them and done vs the torque+90+90 which can be very nerve racking.
 
#9 ·
360 degrees off would be compression for exhaust, piston will not care but ignition will. 180 is quarter full cycle and may be an issue. I suspect the crank moved before cam timing was set but that is just a guess, sure sounds like something didn't go right.
 
#14 ·
360 degrees off would be compression for exhaust, piston will not care but ignition will. 180 is quarter full cycle and may be an issue.
Depends on whether you are talking about cam degrees or crank degrees..... :)


That begs a different question - I've never checked, and have seen conflicting info about it, but is the 1ZZ an interference or non-interference engine?
 
#11 ·
A close friend of mine who is also a excellent Toyota mechanic thinks it is possible. I can see the intake manifold as the possible issue and not working on a lift would be a hassle. I would like to try it sometime if I find a OEM MR2 head to play with. I think your answer is going to be drop the engine.
 
#13 ·
True... but, and here's the sad part, this is a fresh reman engine we just put in the car this summer... :'( but you're right, probably would be easier to take it out of the car either way. I tore the old engine down so I can imagine how hard it would be to remove the head with the engine still in the car... 6 of one, half dozen of the other... ugh.