Why wouldnt you recommend it? The MWR kit looks more complete than the Turbokits.com one?

 

The fitment was way off, needed a lot of modification. Manifold bolted to head just fine, everything else was downhill from there. Turbo didn't want to bolt up to manifold and it wouldn't clear the valve cover! Waste gate actuator bracket had to be cut and the valve cover itself had to be cut. Charge pipes were all off the mark, same for the exhaust. Loving that big ass intercooler though.

 

Sorry to hear.
Did you contact them. If so what did they say. How was their CS and support.
The whole point of buying a kit is so you don't have to do any of that.

 

Please be aware that SMTs have problems with Piggybacks.. Turbo or not..

The problem has to do with the Engine Load Calculation ( TPS vs MAF ) used to Predict and control shifting. This are the same things the Piggyback mess with.. The end result will be shifting and clutch control will be all wrong..

Good Luck

Cap

 

The tuning shop reached out to MRW and apparently they were not very helpful and then just ignored emails. Shifting has been ok, but as i understand it, the piggyback is currently only making adjustments to ignition timing and fuel delivery. No O2 sensors so we are working with open loop still.

 

if the ignition it provided by the Piggy, then things should be ok.. If the ignition is provided by the ECU, and the piggy is controlling the ECU to provide it at the requested time, you will have challenges..

Turbo on SMT has been done.. but not all installs were successful..

Generally my understanding is if the Piggy provides the spark and fuel.. the 'Spark Confirm Line' needs to go back to the ECU, and the ECU controls the Idle Speed and Throttle position motor, then it should work out for you..

Sounds like you have a good shop helping you..

Cap

 

Idle speed is definitely high until the engine has warmed up (about 1700rpm) but honestly the car is running and driving fine. Friction point relearn or full SMT relearn might be worth doing. Any suggestions on what I should be doing next? Oil cooler perhaps?

 

I have an SMT Turbo with no issues. When you say no O2 sensors, are they just disconnected? The factory ecu won't like that. How is it wired up - did you use a pnp harness?

 

PNP harness from MRW, their turbo kit only has 1 bung in the exhaust for a wideband so no 02 sensors connected to the ECU. I'm going to have 2 more bungs put in to install the factory 02 sensors and attempt closed loop operation. It sounds like you have some experience with this. What do I need to know?

 

... I'm going to have 2 more bungs put in to install the factory 02 sensors and attempt closed loop operation. It sounds like you have some experience with this. What do I need to know?

You need one bung in the 1-4 exhaust stream, and one in the 2-3 exhaust stream for the ECU to regulate properly. If you don't have a 4-2-1 merge, then choose 1 or 4 for the first bung, and 2 or 3 for the other.

 

I'm guessing exhaust manifold was designed to get the turbo as close as possible to engine. Good idea until you make one out of spec and you end up with this.

 

Oof... yeah... far from bolt-on..

 

Got the wideband installed today. Took the car out for half an hour or so. No CEL? Didn't expect that! OBD scanner is broken so it will be a few days before I can actually scan for codes. I am using the MWR plug and play harness so maybe it's feeding the AFR data to the ECU? This doesn't make any sense to me yet, but I'll take the good news anyway I can get it.

 

When you split the ONE O2 Sensor sig and drive BOTH inputs from it, the ECU does not build fuel trims.. it always stays at Zero trim for Long and Short..

Also if you maintain Polarity on the O2 Sensor Heater wires. you can have the ECU drive ONE heater from BOTH heater Outputs, and it will not toss a code..

BTDT..

EDIT:

PPE/ OBX O2 sensor exhaust header fix/ solution

Goto the second post for better information from Cap, I have just documented my short experience with pictures for better clarity and brief description. These are on cylinder 1 and 2 and the same should apply for the obx I believe but cap will be in shortly. In discussion with cap over...

www.spyderchat.com

This Thread gets into the Weeds of the Wiring and Options..

Cap

 

When you split the ONE O2 Sensor sig and drive BOTH inputs from it, the ECU does not build fuel trims.. it always stays at Zero trim for Long and Short..

Well, ok, but how does the ECU know that it is only seeing one sensor? Each loop sees the same signal, and that signal looks like a normal O2 feedback signal, and it will respond normally to fuel adjustments. The signals are not even going to be exactly identical, since the ECU samples them sequentially, and besides timing skew, there is random noise in every sampling. If the ECU does not create trims, that would mean that it has made a fault determination. If it does create trims, the trims will diverge from each other in a random walk due to sampling noise. At worst, they will diverge linear with time, due to some systematic effect of the timing skew.

 

Agree.. It startled me as well.. I was expecting some Garbage and ECU error when I did my Testing.. But it ran fine with Single Split O2 Sensor, and the Wideband in the Before Cat Position Showed me it was happy.. Steady running and Accelerating..

Cap

 

If using one O2 sensor, you still need a dummy resistor on the "unused" O2 sensor heater circuit or it will throw a CEL.

I've run the split O2 sensor for about 5 years now post the turbo, and as mentioned earlier, no drifting fuel trims.

 

If you re-read the Thread I've linked.. you will see the Technique to allow the ECU to feed ONE O2 sensor from the TWO heater outputs, and the shared Amperage that each Output is supplying to the heater, is enough the satisfy the ECU Heater Load sensing Circuits..

Cap

 

If the fuel trims are zero, then the ECU is running open loop. So, there must be some reason why it does this without leaving some sort of code.

 

Then what do you call Rhythmic Cycling above and below 14 Fueling during steady state running, and Drops into the 12's during acceleration.

Cap

 

I agree that the fuel dithering indicates closed loop, and if the loop is open, then the trims have to be static, but not necessarily zero.

It seems unlikely that the mixture would be exactly stoichiometric without short term adjustment, at least. The dithering will give a certain tracking range, but that is supposed to feed down to the trims, right? Are the trims exactly zero, or just very small?

I find it unlikely that the trims would be exactly zero without some system intervention. If the trims just happen to be very small, then over time, one of them should emerge slightly positive, and the other slightly negative, due to the intrinsic randomness of sampling. Random walks can be very slow, but they are also inevitable.

 

Scanned the ECU today with the torque app. Forgot to save the (pending?) codes before I cleared them. Misfire on two cylinders and something else but still no CEL light on. AFR didn't show any data. STFT was 0 and LTFT was +25

 

25 long term fuel trim is a huge amount... That doesn't sound good.

 

Rmeller..
The Mixture is not designed to stay at 14.. It's a technique called 'Gulping'.. Over and Under Stoch, intermittently loads the Cat with fuel, then Air.. That is how the Cat stays lit.. That prevents the need for an 'Air Injection Pump'..

Cap

 

Right, I get that. But the average is what is fed down to the fuel trims, right? If the O2 sensor is at lean for longer that it is at rich, it is going to ramp the trim up, and vice versa. That is why I am saying that it is very unlikely for the trims to stay at exactly zero if the engine is in closed loop. It would be like balancing a pencil on the tip.

 

I'm thinking the Fuel Trims that we see, are a 'Sanitized' version of the actual calculation used in the Fueling Solution..

We see:. Long Term, Short Term Trims.. We don't see 'Instantaneous Trim'.. I'm thinking the Instantaneous Trim, is the Solution used to get the Engine Running now, but its changing so fast, and it is not used long enough to be considered 'Short Term Stable'..

So my theory is we see the Zero Number, because it's changing so fast it's not stable long enough to display an actual number..

Cap

 

Well, I can't come up with anything better, without some hard information about what is inside the ECU. I have designed many control systems, and I am going on what I think is likely or possible. None of my work is close to automotive.

 

What is wrong with turbokits.com

I never heard of anyone complain about them here. People that have gotten their kits were pretty happy with them, including the fit and finish. It might not include an intercooler, but that’s something you could add to it. They seem to have very good support and reviews for all of their product applications because they specialize in Turbo kits.

https://www.spyderchat.com/threads/rburtons-turbokits-com-dyno-numbers.96370/?post_id=1415594#post-1415594

https://www.yelp.com/biz/turbokits-harwinton-2

TurboKits.com is rated "Great" with 3.8 / 5 on Trustpilot

Do you agree with TurboKits.com's TrustScore? Voice your opinion today and hear what 2 customers have already said.

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https://www.bbb.org/us/ct/harwinton/profile/car-racing-equipment/turbokitscom-0111-14001690

 

The lack of an intercooler and an extra $800 for the garrett turbo ain't great.

 

Scanned for codes today after a drive. P0120(TPS), P0303(misfire 3) P0304(misfire 4). Will probably swap some coils an check the cam sensor plug (it doesn't clip in properly) this weekend. No issues on the drive and no CEL.