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2001 1ZZFE to 1ZZFE Swap

1.8K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  carlbecker  
#1 ·
Good afternoon Spyder folks, long time no talk.

The time has come for me to retire the 1ZZFE that currently resides in my 2001. About three years ago, only weeks after I had purchased the car, it puked its pre-cats into the main cat and, well, we know the story. It smoked profusely, refused to accelerate with its clogged main cat, and consumed oil with gusto. With its 3rd car status, the Spyder was neglected and put on moth balls while life charged on with a new job and a house purchase.

But it is finally time to resurrect the Spyder. I have gotten the car back up to running condition with a gutted exhaust manifold and gutted main cat but the damage has obviously been done with its uncanny resemblance to a steam locomotive at full steam as I drive it back and forth down the block annoying the neighbors.

Now to the point of this post; I purchased a used JDM late-model Celica 1ZZFE from a local importer and have it sitting at my house. It looks to be in very good condition (all plastics look new, no corrosion on valve cover, residual oil and coolant all look fresh and new) and has good compression. What needs to change along with the engine? I have searched for what seems like hours and have caught hints of this and that but nothing of the compendium sort of nature. Below is what I have purchased and/or planned to change for the new motor:

Top of Engine:
- Spark Plugs

Back of Engine:
- Rear Main Seal
- Chromoly Flywheel
- Exedy Clutch Kit
- ARP Flywheel Bolts (with assembly lube)
- ARP Pressure Plate Bolts (blue loctite with these?)

Front of Engine:
- Water Pump
- Water Pump Gasket
- Belt Tensioner Pulley (Looks like a special tool is necessary to change this, any tricks?)

Exhaust Side of Engine:
- Timing Chain Tensioner (not sure if necessary)
- Timing Chain Tensioner Gasket
- Exhaust Manifold Gasket
- Gutted MR2 Spyder Exhaust Manifold
- Magnaflow CARB Main Catalytic Converter and Supplied Gaskets
- New Three Amigos Hardware

Intake Side of Engine:
- Thermostat
- Thermostat Gasket
- Cleaned VVTI Oil Control Solenoid
- Cleaned VVTI Oil Control Solenoid Screen

Additional:
- Enough oil for two or three oil changes in short order
- Enough coolant to flush the entire system.

So, what is missing from the above?

I plan on tackling the heavy work on April 1, 2, and 3... Any additional tips, tricks, or encouragement that you could give to a virgin engine swapper would be most appreciated!

Thanks!

James

Edit: I have also read that certain 1ZZFEs will need to be drilled and tapped for an axle carrier? I had also read somewhere that motors from either a Spyder (obviously) or Celica would not need this treatment.
 
#3 ·
James, I think you're going well over and above the minimum required here. If I were you, with a clean looking replacement engine, with good compression numbers, and no obvious leaks, I would just swap it in as is, and test run it for a few weeks. Then you can see what if anything it might actually need to have done.

The Celica engine comes equipped with an axle bearing carrier bracket, or, if removed, it has the holes to accept the bracket from your Spyder engine.
 
#4 ·
Thanks guys. I figured that some of these items are "might as well do it" items while the motor is out of the car, especially the clutch and rear main seal. I'm glad to hear that everything should bolt up without any drilling and tapping.
 
#5 ·
You might want to check the clutch before replacing, they can last along time but OEM exedy is also cheap.

If you are careful with what you disassemble you will not need to have the rear aligned.

Disconnect the wires at the ECU, it is much easier to swap over all the sensor connections when outside the vehicle.

Thermo is expensive (IMHO) but a pain to access so maybe, waterpump and rear seal - same so I just replaced them for the long term.

Leave the AC lines connected, leave the clutch slave line connected. Hang them out of the way.

No beer until finished, take your time and have fun.