A customer sent me these pictures and i really wanted to share them with you guys. I asked him for permission and he said yes and also sent me a ton of more detailed pictures so i'm excited to share them with you guys.
A few years ago i made a very comprehensive 2AR-FE swap kit for the Spyder, it makes 205rwhp and personally i think that's a really great amount for a street car and even for a race car. I race mine at that power level and have an absolute blast.
But with that said, i CONSTANTLY get requests for the 2GR-FE.
So here's the thing, a 2GR-FE swap will never be a bolt-in swap. Even if it fits in the engine bay and bolts right in, you absolutely will need an access panel to service the front coils at a minimum because this motor unfortunately is known to blow coils semi regularly. While not as critical it would also be a really wise idea to make an access panel for the alternator. because the bracket on the 2GR hugs the top and the bottom of the alternator so it has to move away from the motor by about 2" before you can remove it.
So for all of those that agree with those above statements, we can continue with the good news.
The motor fits with my 2AR-FE swap kit a lot better than i expected.
The alternator actually fits if it wasn't for the electrical connector. (just barely and does not leave room for engine movement but it technically fits)
So with a small access cover there, it does not even have to be as big as the hole pictured and would only need 10-15mm of clearance and a little extra around the connector:
Then, from the top you can see the coils clear. You'll want the service cover there too but it does not need to add clearance. that same cover will allow access to the dipstick.
The front vvt-i connector won't clear but they are actually interchangable. just use a different vvt-i solenoid there with a plug that goes towards the back of the car instead of upwards:
The rear VVT-I oil line is the worst interference but it's in an area that does not matter so this area can be built up.
Filling the oil will be damn near impossible in the stock location. I think the best solution there is to just add a different fill location. The timing tensioner cover would actually be a really good candidate, it's steel and goes right down to the crank case so you could weld a filler neck on there. you could use something as small as a transmission style fill tube and just use a funnel. so what if an oil change takes 5 minutes longer for the oil to go in?
In this case he used my SW20 mount and made custom side chassis brackets. This is an area where if i supplied a part it could be much easier of course. There are also other alternate solutions possible here that use the stock Spyder isolator and just a solid bracket:
Now there is currently no header that fits as far as i know but one of the biggest triangular merges and it just barely clears. This is with 2" primary pipes. if you used something more resonable like 1-5/8" primary pipes like i do on my current 2GR headers it would fit with plenty of clearance. And yes, you will want a shield on that clutch line or relocate it.
All this means that all my transmission mount brackets can be used, my cheap axle solution can be used, my body controller can be used (it will drive the coolant gauge, alternator light and oil pressure light and also control the cooling fans since the 2GR ECU won't do it), the shift linkage stuff which really simplifies a complex part of the swap, the DBW pedal mounting, the tuned ECU, the two pre-made wiring harnesses (though the 2GR ECU side will need repined slightly, no big deal i can help), even the ECU brackets to mount it in the engine bay nicely can be used and finally the MAF pipe to make the whole thing run nice and smoothly. The MAF pipe bracket may be usable also but it may not place the pipe at the right angle. I haven't checked that yet.
A little bit of ground clearance is lost but the 2GR is actually not as deep as the 2AR so it isn't a very big loss.
All the parts are available today at www.FrankensteinMotorworks.com
A few years ago i made a very comprehensive 2AR-FE swap kit for the Spyder, it makes 205rwhp and personally i think that's a really great amount for a street car and even for a race car. I race mine at that power level and have an absolute blast.
But with that said, i CONSTANTLY get requests for the 2GR-FE.
So here's the thing, a 2GR-FE swap will never be a bolt-in swap. Even if it fits in the engine bay and bolts right in, you absolutely will need an access panel to service the front coils at a minimum because this motor unfortunately is known to blow coils semi regularly. While not as critical it would also be a really wise idea to make an access panel for the alternator. because the bracket on the 2GR hugs the top and the bottom of the alternator so it has to move away from the motor by about 2" before you can remove it.
So for all of those that agree with those above statements, we can continue with the good news.
The motor fits with my 2AR-FE swap kit a lot better than i expected.

The alternator actually fits if it wasn't for the electrical connector. (just barely and does not leave room for engine movement but it technically fits)

So with a small access cover there, it does not even have to be as big as the hole pictured and would only need 10-15mm of clearance and a little extra around the connector:

Then, from the top you can see the coils clear. You'll want the service cover there too but it does not need to add clearance. that same cover will allow access to the dipstick.

The front vvt-i connector won't clear but they are actually interchangable. just use a different vvt-i solenoid there with a plug that goes towards the back of the car instead of upwards:

The rear VVT-I oil line is the worst interference but it's in an area that does not matter so this area can be built up.

Filling the oil will be damn near impossible in the stock location. I think the best solution there is to just add a different fill location. The timing tensioner cover would actually be a really good candidate, it's steel and goes right down to the crank case so you could weld a filler neck on there. you could use something as small as a transmission style fill tube and just use a funnel. so what if an oil change takes 5 minutes longer for the oil to go in?

In this case he used my SW20 mount and made custom side chassis brackets. This is an area where if i supplied a part it could be much easier of course. There are also other alternate solutions possible here that use the stock Spyder isolator and just a solid bracket:

Now there is currently no header that fits as far as i know but one of the biggest triangular merges and it just barely clears. This is with 2" primary pipes. if you used something more resonable like 1-5/8" primary pipes like i do on my current 2GR headers it would fit with plenty of clearance. And yes, you will want a shield on that clutch line or relocate it.

All this means that all my transmission mount brackets can be used, my cheap axle solution can be used, my body controller can be used (it will drive the coolant gauge, alternator light and oil pressure light and also control the cooling fans since the 2GR ECU won't do it), the shift linkage stuff which really simplifies a complex part of the swap, the DBW pedal mounting, the tuned ECU, the two pre-made wiring harnesses (though the 2GR ECU side will need repined slightly, no big deal i can help), even the ECU brackets to mount it in the engine bay nicely can be used and finally the MAF pipe to make the whole thing run nice and smoothly. The MAF pipe bracket may be usable also but it may not place the pipe at the right angle. I haven't checked that yet.
A little bit of ground clearance is lost but the 2GR is actually not as deep as the 2AR so it isn't a very big loss.
All the parts are available today at www.FrankensteinMotorworks.com