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2gr-fe swap using Frankenstein Motorworks 2ar-fe swap kit parts.

34K views 23 replies 9 participants last post by  cyclehead  
#1 ·
A customer sent me these pictures and i really wanted to share them with you guys. I asked him for permission and he said yes and also sent me a ton of more detailed pictures so i'm excited to share them with you guys.

A few years ago i made a very comprehensive 2AR-FE swap kit for the Spyder, it makes 205rwhp and personally i think that's a really great amount for a street car and even for a race car. I race mine at that power level and have an absolute blast.

But with that said, i CONSTANTLY get requests for the 2GR-FE.

So here's the thing, a 2GR-FE swap will never be a bolt-in swap. Even if it fits in the engine bay and bolts right in, you absolutely will need an access panel to service the front coils at a minimum because this motor unfortunately is known to blow coils semi regularly. While not as critical it would also be a really wise idea to make an access panel for the alternator. because the bracket on the 2GR hugs the top and the bottom of the alternator so it has to move away from the motor by about 2" before you can remove it.

So for all of those that agree with those above statements, we can continue with the good news.
The motor fits with my 2AR-FE swap kit a lot better than i expected.
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The alternator actually fits if it wasn't for the electrical connector. (just barely and does not leave room for engine movement but it technically fits)
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So with a small access cover there, it does not even have to be as big as the hole pictured and would only need 10-15mm of clearance and a little extra around the connector:
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Then, from the top you can see the coils clear. You'll want the service cover there too but it does not need to add clearance. that same cover will allow access to the dipstick.
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The front vvt-i connector won't clear but they are actually interchangable. just use a different vvt-i solenoid there with a plug that goes towards the back of the car instead of upwards:
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The rear VVT-I oil line is the worst interference but it's in an area that does not matter so this area can be built up.
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Filling the oil will be damn near impossible in the stock location. I think the best solution there is to just add a different fill location. The timing tensioner cover would actually be a really good candidate, it's steel and goes right down to the crank case so you could weld a filler neck on there. you could use something as small as a transmission style fill tube and just use a funnel. so what if an oil change takes 5 minutes longer for the oil to go in?
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In this case he used my SW20 mount and made custom side chassis brackets. This is an area where if i supplied a part it could be much easier of course. There are also other alternate solutions possible here that use the stock Spyder isolator and just a solid bracket:
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Now there is currently no header that fits as far as i know but one of the biggest triangular merges and it just barely clears. This is with 2" primary pipes. if you used something more resonable like 1-5/8" primary pipes like i do on my current 2GR headers it would fit with plenty of clearance. And yes, you will want a shield on that clutch line or relocate it.
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All this means that all my transmission mount brackets can be used, my cheap axle solution can be used, my body controller can be used (it will drive the coolant gauge, alternator light and oil pressure light and also control the cooling fans since the 2GR ECU won't do it), the shift linkage stuff which really simplifies a complex part of the swap, the DBW pedal mounting, the tuned ECU, the two pre-made wiring harnesses (though the 2GR ECU side will need repined slightly, no big deal i can help), even the ECU brackets to mount it in the engine bay nicely can be used and finally the MAF pipe to make the whole thing run nice and smoothly. The MAF pipe bracket may be usable also but it may not place the pipe at the right angle. I haven't checked that yet.

A little bit of ground clearance is lost but the 2GR is actually not as deep as the 2AR so it isn't a very big loss.

All the parts are available today at www.FrankensteinMotorworks.com
 
#3 ·
Yeah, it'll never be trivial to swap in such a large engine but this really ends up taking care of so much of the hard parts without costing a fortune. That front header is still a very complicated part of course that most people will have a problem making on their own. But you need someone that knows how to weld or has access to someone that can in order to do this swap anyways. Installing this motor without the ability to access the front ignition coils is a terrible idea.
 
#5 ·
The stock A/C compressor will not fit in that location. I’m working on a reduced diameter A/C compressor solution for the 2AR that would likely work for the 2GR also. It’s using the nissan juke compressor that is a much smaller diameter as a base.

Though, another way to look at it is with the location that fits the A/C you have to hack up the crossmember quite a bit to make it fit. if you used the stock A/C compressor and notched the frame member in about 1” or so in front of where the A/C goes it would fit so at a minimum it’s no less work.
 
#7 ·
There are many ways to do it, i'm not claiming it's the only way, just that it might be a decent and economical way that also solves many other problems than the alternative. DDPR offers mounts and a custom crossmember for $3000, I don't know how how much the headers, y-pipe, shift linkage and whatnot cost that you'd have to buy from him. Do feel free to post it if you have the info, it's always nice to see the alternatives.

But you need those access panels anyways so why add extra work by also hacking up the cross member?

Moving the transmission back would prevent the stock shift cables from reaching. You could probably move it about 1/2" back before you run out of cable length for my solution.
 
#8 ·
I am always looking at the v6 swaps and dreaming of doing it myself but then I come back to earth lol. Those access panels remind me of my old hiace van where you sit on the engine :)
I don't mind the idea of access panels so you can access the motor. If the coils are a known issue is there a solution to replace them with something more reliable?
How does it affect the handling? I know there is a v6 mrs race car but that's had alot of chassis mods to support it but for a regular mrs owner without the huge racing budget is there any problems running with this engine in the mrs compared to the smaller 4 bangers?
An mrs with a 2gr is a proper porsche/ ferrari beater in my eyes.
 
#9 ·
I am always looking at the v6 swaps and dreaming of doing it myself but then I come back to earth lol. Those access panels remind me of my old hiace van where you sit on the engine :)
I remember those vans, they were pretty awesome. It would be awesome if stamped access panels like that were available that could be installed.

I don't mind the idea of access panels so you can access the motor. If the coils are a known issue is there a solution to replace them with something more reliable?
they aren't so unreliable that they are annoying, but there's a good chance that they will fail before you otherwise need to service the engine. they also fail really softly at first. You'll just get a quick code once and an engine restart will let that cylinder fire again usually for several dozen or hundreds of miles before it actually becomes a real problem. But whenever you get a misfire code on this engine, just change the coil. Even if they did not fail, you still need to service the spark plugs every 30k so 100% reliable coilpacks would still not solve the need for the top panel.

How does it affect the handling? I know there is a v6 mrs race car but that's had alot of chassis mods to support it but for a regular mrs owner without the huge racing budget is there any problems running with this engine in the mrs compared to the smaller 4 bangers?
it's about an extra 160-180lbs, people that want 50-50 are horrified by this idea but frankly it really isn't a big deal. The spyder chassis is already really floppy but if you're racing the car a cage stiffens it right up in the center which is the squishiest part.

I've said it before and I'll say it again. I think the 2gr-fe is too much motor for the spyder in most circumstances. It's great for the MKII but keep in mind it weighs over 30% more than the MKIII. But it's not my decision to make, it seems that everyone disagrees with me on that statement.

As for problems vs 4 bangers, as long as you add those service panels you'll be fine for servicability vs a 4 banger and i would not expect you'd have excessive heat issues with it but i've never raced an MKIII with anything more than the 2AR-FE. when racing with the 2AR-FE i do get everything hot enough to get slight paint discoloration in the engine bay but it does not result in actual issues. note that the 2AR-FE has more exhaust energy going forward than the 2GR-FE

An mrs with a 2gr is a proper porsche/ ferrari beater in my eyes.
I think a better comparison of the Spyder with the 2GR is the Porsche 930 turbo "Widowmaker". it weighs the same, it does not have the associated turbo lag but it makes up for it by having a squishier chassis and 16% more horsepower. It's super fun and fast but you better know what the hell you're doing. I've seen a pro (not a weekend "pro", but a real pro that is an indycar driver) have several close calls with my 2GR powered MKII because it had too much power for it's traction on the track with the car weight reduced down to 2600lbs.
 
#10 ·
I’ll make a separate show-n-tell thread with my home built 2GR swap spyder. I bought it (already swapped) 8 years and 120,000 miles ago from Uspspro. It has homemade engine mounts, stock exhaust manifolds, three catalytic converters, a few of Goukys parts. I drive it daily. The details may provide some helpful details or alternatives for folks planning a 2GR swap.
 
#11 ·
Awesome, please post the link to the other post in here so people that are here can find it.

Which one of my parts do you have? I should know since i sell the stuff but it's surprisingly difficult to link real names with forum names :) The ECU tune and MAF pipe would be fantastic for your car though. and now the body controller if you don't have a fully working instrument cluster currently.
 
#14 ·
...someone bought uspspro mrs cool how have you managed not to wrap it around a tree :)
Definitely a learning curve! No near misses with trees, mostly other drivers have caused the hazards. I’ve learned how to pass fast-lane-hogs without sending them into a vindictive fury. The car is an absolute joy to drive - out accelerate, out stop, out corner just about every car on the road. The challenge is to avoid the urge to drive like a total jerk all the time! :)
 
#15 ·
You know, i gotta say that the spyder does not illicit nearly as much of that "vindictive fury" from other drivers even when i'm driving a bit aggressively. The MKII MR2 sends people into a rage even if i don't pass them and don't get me started on what happens when i borrow my buddy's Z4. Holy hell, the Z4 is a wonderful car but i'm 100% not willing to own one due to other people's reaction. I've also got a Cayenne GTS (tow rig/bad weather car), that thing may as well be transparent to other people and the cops. nobody gives a damn about that thing and it's got 405hp and a manual trans!

People just have preconceived notions based on what the car is and you really have to go out of your way to get them to not go to that assumption. I'm quite happy that the Spyder isn't one of those cars that gives that reaction.
 
#19 ·
I guess I should have said if someone brought the kit and did this swap (and not the seller of this product). The OP is the seller so he would have to test and provide justification for us to buy his product. For me, it is the buyers’ opinions that matter as I would also be a buyer if their feedback is positive.
 
#20 ·
You didn't bother to even open his build thread did you? That's not the vendor, thats another member that did the swap.

TL;DR: Fun swap, sounds INCREDIBLE, very costly, requires quite a bit of time/skill to prepare, also requires extensive modification of the firewall to fit/service the engine.

I'd go read his thread & look at his vids to get the full picture. That'll allow you to ask educated questions about it as well if still considering at that point.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Depending on how far forward you position the engine, the firewall may need zero mods. When I got mine (built by USPSPRO) the firewall was intact and untouched. I added a small trap door to access coils and plugs. I can remove the alternator and ac compressor without dropping the engine or cutting anything.

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#23 ·
USPSPro's build is a one off and he notched the crossmember.

The 2AR kit with the 2GR/EB60 leaves the crossmember intact but you definitely have to cut the firewall to make room for the alternator. People are putting their access panel facing forward so you don't have to mess with the ragtop.