What wiring spreadsheet did you use?

check for cranking speed with a scan tool live data. If you have cranking speed I suggest scoping the ignition and injector outputs for pulse.

 

I used Frankster's video on YouTube with his draw out diagram.

I will get a code scanner then and start there.

Can you explain what scoping those entails?

 

Please compare to my spreadsheet what you did

2ZZ swap wiring spreadsheet

See link below - I rebuilt the one that was floating around as a jpg forever, it has more clear instructions and descriptions, including repinning the TPS.Has worked for several swaps with USDM and JDM engine computers. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1KKQpbrbp68LS597pdvAHrRrDL8PFo1Fp

www.spyderchat.com

scoping means using a oscilloscope to test for the waveform on the terminals to verify that a pulsed signal is being sent properly. PC software based scopes that just plug into a USB port are quite inexpensive.

 

So...the Live Scan tool I got is failing to connect to the ECU. I have the "FOXWELL NT301 OBD2 Scanner Live Data" Any idea why this might be happening?

 

.

 

No idea, I don't have much experience with cheaper scan tools. Other people here do I'll wait for them to chime in. What software are you using with the adapter?

 

Is there a scanner tool I should use? I just got this one because I figured it would be fine. I'm not using any software that I'm aware of. The tool just fails to connect when plug into the car. I checked it on my 2004 Pontiac Vibe GT (daily) and it connected.

 

Not really. It's just to increase idle power when calling for a lot from the power steering system as the load from the pump (or electrical system in our cars) tends to pull the engine speed down a bit.

 

As your OBD2 scan tool is working on your 2004 Pontiac Vibe GT, could it be a faulty 2ZZ ECU?

 

I'm more inclined to think something in my wiring is faulty than the ECU. The party I purchased the ECU from verified that it was in operating condition.

 

Are you sure that your ECU does not have an immobilizer?

 

I am not sure that it doesn't have an immobilizer. How would I go about looking for that? Would that create a state where is cranks and won't start? Would that keep a Scan Tool from connecting?

Thank you!

 

If the ECU has an immobilizer, it won't inject fuel unless it sees a key with a match-coded chip. I suppose that you could find out from the ECU part number, or from the specs of the car that it came from. No idea about the scan tool, but I see no reason why it would be affected.

 

He said '81' ECU so it shouldn't be immobilised. Most 2ZZ computers aren't. What's the full ECU part number?

 

I was wondering what that meant. I am pretty sure that the 2zz did not exist in 1981.

 

 

Also, I don't have anything connected to this connection because I didn't have anything here on the 1zz.

 

Hello,

Can I get some help here please?

So I connected the 1ZZ ecu just to see what happened when I plugged in the scan tool. I got it to connect as normal. I didn't try starting it or anything. I plugged in the 2zz ECU again and it still won't connect. Does this mean I have a bad ECU?

Thank you!

 

Yes that sounds probable. The ECU you have for 2ZZ is a USDM one so it should connect to a scan tool, and those pins plus the main power pins don't get moved around when doing the wiring conversion.

 

Alright UPDATE:

I got a new ECU and it connects and it starts! But it immediately dies as soon as I stop giving it gas. And I have to give it gas for it to start in the first place.

Can I please get some help?

Thank you!

 

Here is a video.

At first I give it no gas, twice. Then when it fires up and revs and maintains it when I'm giving it gas. The moment I left off it dies.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/qTqs5MPZKZNMztxi6

 

ALSO:

1. Ground connected from firewall to Block
2. Grounds connected to 2 locations on engine head.
3. Ground connected to Transmission.
4. MAF arrow pointing in direction of air flow.
5. Lift sensors both connected to Lift assembly.
6. Vacuum lines all double checked.

 

Did you flip the wires on the TPS when you did the swap? If so then it sounds like a bad idle air valve.

 

I did not...

 

You need to swap 2 wires on the TPS because it rotates the other way compared to 1ZZ. Its covered extensively on the swap threads and on my spreadsheet.

 

I did that and it started and will idle now! Although, it won't idle unless I nurse it into an idling RMP level.

The issue I'm now concerned with is that the temperature gage is reading really high already after having let it idle for a few minutes. The coolant reservoir had been at the full but is now above it. Any ideas?

Thank you!

 

Did you fill and bleed the cooling system per the service manual procedure?

 

Yes, I followed the steps in the manual. I used those 2 hoses in the front of the vehicle. The rear was elevated on jack stands when I did it though, so maybe that's the issue. I also might have not placed the thermostat orientation correctly. I had to remove and reinstall the thermostat several times while trying to make everything fit and come together so I don't recall if the final installation was correct. I was going to start with bleeding the system now that it's on flat ground, and if the issue persisted remove the thermostat and verify orientation. Does that sound good?

 

Bleeding the coolant again seems to have fixed the problem of over-heating.

I'm still getting a really rough idle. I have to nurse it into an idling RMP and if I do something such as rev the engine, when it drops back down it goes too low and stalls out. Any ideas?

 

Which air intake are you using? Does it respond better once it's warmed up?

 

I'm using the MWR one. And actually no. If I let it sit and warm up it will run and then just die all on it's own. It's like the idle is just sitting at like 500 RMP's too low. It wants to idle at a speed that causes it to stall.

 

Once it gets warmed up it dies as though it's dropping the idle a little bit more since it's warmed up and that's too low for it to not stall out.