Could still be crank sensor. especially if it isn't showing RPM on a OBD reader when cranking. To be clear it will crank but not fire up right? 'Turning over' usually means just cranking on the starter.

 

Yes, it cranks. I swapped the 2ZZ crank sensor with the 1ZZ one when I read that it could be the crank sensor. My thought process is that this worked on the old engine and is the same as the 2ZZ (unlike the cam sensor) so it has to work, right? I later measured the ohms on the one in the 2ZZ and it measured in spec.

Do you think I need a new one and to install it or could the problem be further up the line?

L0rd-Z

 

0 rpm on OBD2 is usually a strong indication there is an issue with the crankshaft position sensor or its wiring. RPM on crank should be about 250. The ECU gets this number by counting the pulses from the CKP sensor. If you somewhat sure that the CKP sensor is good, then check its wiring. Check for end-to-end continuity on the two wires from the sensor connector to the ECU connector. If you have an oscilloscope, then backprobe the two CKP terminals on the ECU harness connector.

I am attaching the diagnostic section of the manual for the CKP. Also the Terminals of the ECM, so you can find NE+ and NE- They are the same for 2zz and 1zz.

 

Did you disassemble the front of the engine at all? If so was the trigger wheel installed properly and not damaged? If you have access to an oscilloscope it can help troubleshoot.

 

Also if you are only checking the sensor at its plug then you should check wiring continuity from the harness plug to the ecu plugs for the sensor.

 

I am getting an oscilloscope today to check the wiring. as for disassembly of the engine, all I did to the 2ZZ was clean the intake manifold no other disassembly of the engine. Just swapping parts needed from the 1ZZ as per guide instructions.

L0rd-Z

 

As of writing this, I am still waiting on my oscilloscope to come in, but I did measure the continuity of the wiring harness from the CKP. This did pass continuity to the ECU meaning it shouldn't be the harness. Since I was back at the ECU, I plugged in the 1ZZ ECU again to see if that could start the car, but still had no luck.

L0rd-Z

 

Alright, I went and bought a new CKP and installed it, this allowed the car to finally start, but not reliably. The car will crank for a while, sometimes it goes quickly, other times it will take a minute or two.

The ECM is also giving me codes now, p0335, p1305, and p1310.

p0335 relates directly to the CKP which I just installed new from autozone, and the only solution for this code, that I saw, was to replace the CKP. I have cleared this just incase it was old, but it comes back up.
In addition to this, the car has a poor idle and the revs while cranking show 114 sometimes then goes to 200 before it starts.

The other two are for coils which I will be replacing, they popped up yesterday after a while.

L0rd-Z

 

I suspect Denso makes the OEM CKP and that is what I would have used, either from a dealer or Denso parts supplier.

 

I would also carefully inspect the wiring harness between the crank sensor and engine for any damage. It's a shielded wire so also check that the shield is grounded.

 

This is a good point. The shielding for several sensors grounds through a connector on the engine harness. It is located near the ECU. The identifier is J5. This caused one member to chase a no-start for about a year before he took it to a shop where the issue was found.

This is not to send you on a wild goose chase but something to keep in mind in case all else fails. For the time being, just make sure that this connector is plugged in securely. Often enough people either forget to connect harness sensors or do not connect them securely.

Some other comments:

(1) In general, I avoid parts stores brands whenever possible. Denso or corresponding brand is worth the extra cost.

(2) 114rpm on crank is absolutely not normal. This would indicate weak battery or failing starter.

(3) If you have not done already, swap the ignition coil positions, before you go purchase new coils. And for Chrissakes, if you do buy new coils, buy Denso.

These illsutrations are from my so-called "magic manuals." To my knowledge, this is the only complete and authoritative set of manuals available. You can get your own magic manual by contacting me directly. @rmeller, take note.

 

I finally caved and brought it into Toyota since all other local mechanics are booked.

They triple checked my grounds, ruled out faulty ECU/plug and play from MWR, and ruled out the fuel pump. The only thing left is my engine harness, which did work before the swap, and was stored properly during the swap, and was not abused upon reinstalling.

I also checked with MWR that the imported engine from Japan was not causing my issue, but was told that angel did not make sense, as all the USDM parts should work the same as the JDM ones (harness and ECU are USDM).

My only logical option is to replace the engine harness, which is not available through MWR, and I am unsure about the one Ebay post that Toyota told me about. Toyota does not have them in stock in the US but has not technically discontinued them.

Does anyone have any additional information that might help me?
Or does anyone have a functional harness they are willing to sell before I try and repair mine?

Thanks,
L0rd-z

 

"It's the harness" is not a specific fault diagnosis. If this is the exent of the diagnosis, then whoever made it is a hack. The specific fault should be called out. I.E. there is no continuity on x wire, or y-wire is shorted, or what have you. Without a specific diagnosis you are at risk of buying a new harness and ending up right where you started. It could just as easily be a fault in the ECU. Also, with a specific fault diagnosis you can replace the faulty wires, no need to replace the entire harness. For example if your crankshaft position sensor wiring is faulty, it is very simple to replace that wiring. This is easier than it sounds. just tedious - anyone who has modified or built a harness for an engine swap or standalone ECU can attest to that. At this point, what I would be doing is trying to locate a known-good ECU. Your failure mode is not inconsistent with damaged or faulty ECU.

PS. Just to tie up a loose end, what did you find, using your oscilloscope.

 

According to Matt over at MWR, I am able to plug my 1ZZ ECU and get the car to start, I had tried this and had no luck with a known good ECU, I also tried skipping the plug and play incase that was the issue, and still had no luck.

Keep in mind, the car does start since replacing the CKP but does not start first try (anywhere between 1-20ish tries)

I will be making sure Toyota tells me which sensor/wire would be causing the issue. I did not know how fixable the harness was, but I guess it wouldn't be the end of the world since it isn't chopped anywhere.

Since the Oscilloscope testing was a while ago, I do not remember the exact numbers, but there was reading at the other end of the wire. I tested using a T-pin in the ECU side of the harness then cranked. I haven't tested with the oscilloscope since putting the denso sensor in.

 

Has anyone checked the valve timing? This is done by setting the crankshaft to TDC on cylinder 1, then checking the aligment of the timing marks on the camshaft gears, under the valve cover. Off by one link could explain slow start and timing-related codes. Could also be due to failure to sync camshaft position with crankshaft. If you still have your 1zz camshaft position sensor on your 1zz valve cover, swap it over to the 2zz. I know;that you would expect a camshaft position sensor for this, but let's cover all the angles.

MATT is correct that the engine should start with 1zz ECU plugged straight in to the engine harness - no patch harness in between. Matt is usually on-traget with technical advice.

 

you could start by metering out the harness, or at least unplug the crank sensor and see if you get a code.. if you do pull the one from your 1zz and see if it fixes the issue.

 

Did you end up resolving the issue?

 

I have not figured it out yet. I currently have it at a speed shop, but have not heard anything definitive yet.

Also, Thank you guys for your continued help, even if this solution isn't solved I would not be in this position without this forum.

I originally went to replace the Camshaft Position Sensor, but the 2ZZ and 1ZZ don't secure the same. 1ZZ has 1 screw and the 2ZZ has 2.

The Valve timing has not been checked by me, or requested to be checked. I can ask when the shop calls me back.

Before I replaced the Crankshaft position sensor with a new one (Denso), the 1zz or 2zz ones did not work, the car would not start. Now it starts anywhere between 1-20 times.

Hopefully I will hear more back later today and give another update.
(and if you are worried, I will do my best to post what solves my issue when I know)