I'd start with the battery. I'm not certain, but if thinking that if the alternator wasn't working you wouldn't have been able to drive very far. I'm guessing the cell is dead and just won't hold a charge. Autozone can test / trickle charge the battery for you.

 

Take your battery in and have it tested, almost all the car parts giants do this for free. Vatik beat me to it, morning Vatik.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Blackcreek @ Feb 15 2009, 04:05 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Take your battery in and have it tested, almost all the car parts giants do this for free. Vatik beat me to it, morning Vatik.[/b]

:wave: morning Blackcreek

 

Well, I was going to buy a new Deka battery, regardless, but I figure it wouldn't hurt to drive down to the auto parts store and ask them to check the battery health. I don't see why the battery would suddenly die though, esp after a long drive. There was no indication, like trouble starting the car, before it happened. I don't have "sounds" or A/C, either, and did not leave the lights or radio on.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (mkawada @ Feb 15 2009, 05:11 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Well, I was going to buy a new Deka battery, regardless, but I figure it wouldn't hurt to drive down to the auto parts store and ask them to check the battery health. I don't see why the battery would suddenly die though, esp after a long drive. There was no indication, like trouble starting the car, before it happened. I don't have "sounds" or A/C, either, and did not leave the lights or radio on.[/b]

Batteries do that. Could be that a cell shorted. All it takes is junk sloughing off the plates. The junk falls to the bottom of the cell. At some point enough stuff has fallen that it touches the bottom of the plates, shorts the cell and you are down 2.1 volts.

 

If your battery voltages were fine, it seems as if your alternator is failing to charge.
Jump your car to get it running, turn on your head lights, heaters and any accessory lights, rev the engine any significant increase in the brightness of the lights usually indicates faulty alternator.

When trouble shooting start with the most obvious and simple items.

1. Check battery voltages & fuses
2. Check the Belts belts for damage, looseness tension
3. Have alternator tested and local parts store.

 

I'm going to divert from the crowd, and say it's your Alternator.. If the engine is running, and you still can not get the electrical system 'Up to Snuff' then it's the Alternator not Putting out..

Cap

 

Most likely a bad alternator. Once started, the battery doesn't really play a role (other than being charged as you drive). If the battery isn't all that new, it would make sense to replace it, too. You can order a remanufactured alternator (even if you think you are buying a new part, it is remanufactured) and replace it yourself, but it is a royal pain. I followed the instructions given by "dmc". Search topic titles only for "Alternator".

 

Pretty easy to see with a simple voltmeter instead of guessing. Jump the car and monitor alternator output. Should be up around 13.7-14 volts. Kill the car and monitor battery voltage to see how well it is holding the charge.

 

Update:

I got my new Deka battery, put it in, and the car started right up. Tonight I went for a drive and jammed on the brakes a few times (on purpose) and I didn't notice any dimming of the lights.

 

here is what I do to test if the alternator is dying or the battery is.

I start the car, jump start, whatever.
while the car is on, remove the negative battery terminal.
if the car slowly dies, your alternator is dying. if it stays on, it's your battery.

 

That sounds simple...will try that tomorrow. Thanks!

 

It should have started right up and ran fine for a while whether the alternator is bad or not. When the alternator fails, the battery doesn't get charged. Everything runs fine off the battery until the battery's output drops down below some point, then you start noticing things like the lights are dimmer, the alternator/battery warning light comes on, the power steering stops working, and eventually the engine stops running and you're stranded. Put a new battery in with a bad alternator and it just repeats the whole cycle... the new battery will drain. If you do what greenstreak suggested, you'll know if you're going to get stranded or not if you just drive off assuming it is all hunk dory.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Coil2daOver @ Feb 20 2009, 04:54 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

here is what I do to test if the alternator is dying or the battery is.

I start the car, jump start, whatever.
while the car is on, remove the negative battery terminal.
if the car slowly dies, your alternator is dying. if it stays on, it's your battery.[/b]

DO NOT DO THIS ... EVER!!!

The problem is the Alternator is putting out a 'Charge Rate' that will charge the battery, and keep the System Voltage at a Specified Voltage. When you Disconnect the Battery from the System, the Charge rate that WAS going to the Battery, now has no place to Go. This will Cause the System Voltage to Momentarily 'Spike' up to over 20 Volts.. I've seen it!.. What CAN happen is you will Kill some of your Electronics!.... Now you have more problems to fix...

USE A VOLT METER, OR THAKE IT TO AN AUTOPARTS STORE. THEY CAN CHECK YOU ALT IN THE CAR...

The first rule
1) DO NO HARM!..

This technique was used on cars BEFORE electronice were introduced. It works.. But now that electronics are here, Voltage spikes ARE an issue..

Cap

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (mkawada @ Feb 20 2009, 03:05 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Update:

I got my new Deka battery, put it in, and the car started right up. Tonight I went for a drive and jammed on the brakes a few times (on purpose) and I didn't notice any dimming of the lights.[/b]

When you put the new batt in, did you, by any chance, clean the cable clamps/connectors? Personally, CW has a good suggestion in getting the sys tested, but I would go to an auto electric shop that specializes in these things. Yes, it will cost you, but if there is a problem, they will know where it is and they can fix it. Sometimes it pays to spend some $'s.

 

I'm sure you should be able to buy a battery / alternator tester that can be used time after time on any vehicle. I've got one (just) that cost £3 ($5???).

 

I'm sure you should be able to buy a battery / alternator tester that can be used time after time on any vehicle. I've got one (just) that cost £3 ($5???).

 

Hey guys, thanks for the warning! I will have the alternator tested out before driving the car, again. I feel like parting this car out, piece by piece, already. =/

 

Are there any alternator shops on the island? How about a Sears? They could run the diagnostic for you. Not sure what they would charge, though sometimes its free.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Kevin Beane @ Feb 15 2009, 10:14 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Most likely a bad alternator. Once started, the battery doesn't really play a role (other than being charged as you drive). If the battery isn't all that new, it would make sense to replace it, too. You can order a remanufactured alternator (even if you think you are buying a new part, it is remanufactured) and replace it yourself, but it is a royal pain. I followed the instructions given by "dmc". Search topic titles only for "Alternator".[/b]

I had mine replaced in 15 minutes, unbolting the motor mounts does wonders for it, mine slid right out.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (mkawada @ Feb 20 2009, 01:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Hey guys, thanks for the warning! I will have the alternator tested out before driving the car, again. I feel like parting this car out, piece by piece, already. =/[/b]

I call dibs on your RPF1s!!