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Innovative Wideband issue

1.9K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  kingspyder  
#1 ·
For those of you guys who use the Innovative LC-1 (and possibly XD-16), I have an issue that I hope maybe someone else has had experience with.

I recently purchased a used setup from another SC member and hooked it all up to my car.

It seemed to be working fine and showed a 20.9 AFR when engine was off, but (just in case) I decided to do a "first time" calibration on it for the heater circuit and free air to reset everything since it was in a new vehicle.

Now, every time the sensor gets up to "H 65" on the XD16 during heat up process, it stops and flashes "Error 4" before it ever finishes heating up or gets to calibrate. I doubled checked all my wires, un plugged an reseated all connections several times, performed the "first time" reset procedure by unplugging the sensor from the LM-1 several times, but no matter what it keeps giving me an Error 4 every time it heats up to "H65" now.

The LC-1 manual says this for Error 4:
"Pump cell circuit open"

likely cause:
1. Damaged sensor cable or
sensor connector not fully
seated
2. Sensor heater calibration
incorrect

fix:
1. Verify sensor connector is
fully seated into unit.
Repair/replace cable.
2. Perform complete heater
calibration (not just free air
calibration). See section 4

Does this indicate maybe the sensor itself is bad somehow? Is there something I should be looking for that could be causing this besides "damaged wiring" as the instruction manual says? All the wires and connections look fine upon inspection (I can't get fix #2 to work as I described). I've checked the Innovative forums and can't seem to find anything regarding this there.

Thanks.
 
#4 ·
I know when I had a similar issue over the summer with a DB gauge kit connected. I would notice it warming up and then it would stay stuck at 20.9 even while driving. I replaced the O2 sensor with no results. I ordered an entire new kit with the XD gauge so I ended up with 3 O2 sensors. I tested all 3 with the new kit and they all worked fine. My guess was the controller itself.
 
#5 ·
Plug your laptop into the LC-1 and check to make sure all those settings are still correct after doing the calibration. I know that when I tried to extend the serial wire with a regulat 2.5mm extension cable, it tweaked the settings for it to be something crazy. And I had to set it back to gasoline.

Good luck with the issue.
 
#6 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (LordTakuban @ Nov 19 2008, 05:48 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Plug your laptop into the LC-1 and check to make sure all those settings are still correct after doing the calibration. I know that when I tried to extend the serial wire with a regulat 2.5mm extension cable, it tweaked the settings for it to be something crazy. And I had to set it back to gasoline.

Good luck with the issue.[/b]
I'm not sure if I didn't write it very clearly, but the problem is that it won't even calibrate now (even when I reset it again). It won't do anything anymore except give me an Error 4 flashing on the XD-16. :(

I emailed their Tech Support and they are pointing towards a bad sensor. Odd how it seemed to be respondng when I got it, but is suddenly "broken" after I tried to redo the heater calibration.


*BREAK*

For you guys who have replaced sensors before....

If I buy the sensor from VW, do I need to do some cutting and soldering? I assume the VW sensor doesn't come with the same plug that is used with the LC-1. The sensor is: sensor----wiring----plastic piece---wiring----male plug to LC-1

I'm just wondering at what point I would have to cut and solder the wires, between the sensor and the plastic piece? Thanks.

(on a side note: I find it disturbing that every other thread in the LC-1 Forums is "my LC-1 is dead")
 
#7 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (kingspyder @ Nov 19 2008, 08:17 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
If I buy the sensor from VW, do I need to do some cutting and soldering[/b]
No, its the exact same connector (even has the same P/N printed in white) . The LC-1 is designed to accept the VW sensor as-is. Unmodifed, TRULY PnP.

Purchased from a VW dealer 2003+ Turbo beetle sensor.
Image
 
#9 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (kortik @ Nov 19 2008, 11:27 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
its amazing that Germans use wideband instead of narowband on thier cars

I wish the wire was longer[/b]
It's already pretty darned long compared to our stock oxgen sensors. :)
 
#10 ·
I hope you didn't pay much for it. Buy the whole LC-1 kit in case it isn't the sensor. That's what I did, then after a few months on the new sensor I sold the electronic module part. Worst case, you'll have a spare for whichever part is good. If you bought the one you have now from someone here, it would be reasonable to ask for some compensation.
 
#11 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Kevin Beane @ Nov 20 2008, 02:57 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I hope you didn't pay much for it. Buy the whole LC-1 kit in case it isn't the sensor. That's what I did, then after a few months on the new sensor I sold the electronic module part. Worst case, you'll have a spare for whichever part is good. If you bought the one you have now from someone here, it would be reasonable to ask for some compensation.[/b]
I got a pretty good deal...I think. I already ordered replacement sensor, I'll see how that goes first. My wife will kill me if I spend money on unnecessary "repairs." If the sensor doesn't do it, I guess a new LC-1 will be in my future.
 
#13 ·
Well, I got the new WB sensor today. Did the "reset" and first time heater calibration procedure again, just like before with this new sensor and it worked beautifully, as advertised. So, it was a bad sensor.

BUT now my $&!@#! car won't start anymore...W...T...F. I think I might have caused it by where I laid the sensor when I was doing the free air calibration. Please give your insights. I give more details in a thread I started in maintenance forum: http://spyderchat.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=57286 Excuse me while I go hang myself. :cussing:
 
#14 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (kingspyder @ Nov 25 2008, 01:54 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Well, I got the new WB sensor today. Did the "reset" and first time heater calibration procedure again, just like before with this new sensor and it worked beautifully, as advertised. So, it was a bad sensor.

BUT now my $&!@#! car won't start anymore...W...T...F. I think I might have caused it by where I laid the sensor when I was doing the free air calibration. Please give your insights. I give more details in a thread I started in maintenance forum: http://spyderchat.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=57286 Excuse me while I go hang myself. :cussing:[/b]

Hi Kingspyder,

I have not been on Spyderchat for awhile, due to the fact that I sold my Spyder. I am sorry the WB and sensor are giving you so many problems. Everything worked fine the last time I had the system on my car but I would like to help you out with some of the cost on the new sensor. Please PM what you paid for the new sensor and we can discuss what you think would be a fair solution.

Panek
 
#15 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (panek @ Nov 25 2008, 08:06 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (kingspyder @ Nov 25 2008, 01:54 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Well, I got the new WB sensor today. Did the "reset" and first time heater calibration procedure again, just like before with this new sensor and it worked beautifully, as advertised. So, it was a bad sensor.

BUT now my $&!@#! car won't start anymore...W...T...F. I think I might have caused it by where I laid the sensor when I was doing the free air calibration. Please give your insights. I give more details in a thread I started in maintenance forum: http://spyderchat.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=57286 Excuse me while I go hang myself. :cussing:[/b]

Hi Kingspyder,

I have not been on Spyderchat for awhile, due to the fact that I sold my Spyder. I am sorry the WB and sensor are giving you so many problems. Everything worked fine the last time I had the system on my car but I would like to help you out with some of the cost on the new sensor. Please PM what you paid for the new sensor and we can discuss what you think would be a fair solution.

Panek
[/b][/quote]

Thanks Panek, PMed :)