[20v_lover]

You can disable ABS but pulling a fuse? And I guess no one can confirm if tacking welding a new tone ring onto a TSX driveshaft will clear the MRS knuckle, is this correct?

If Insane or DSS shafts are used, is it PnP in terms of ABS?

I used stock oem shafts pirate outers had it machined and my abs is working fine. Iam sure I posted this. Haven't failed on me yet.

Just knocked the dss shafts abs ring off threw both dss shafts outers away including the one that broke that took me down this road.

I also made a spare set with complete accord/tsx shafts both sides with new machined outers.

One issue I have with the n1 outers is that they supplied honda studs. I refitted my oem toyota studs.
Theres no place for the spickot ring when you fit the wheels disk and hub sits flush.

 

[soon_2b_evil]

Are people cutting the firewall for better access?

 

[BYSpyder]

Are people cutting the firewall for better access?

I did not. If nothing goes wrong, should be fine. I do worry about accessing the back side (front) of the engine if I ever need to though. If I cut the firewall, I'd be worrying about squeaks and rattles from the access port- so I guess you've got to pick your poison.

 

[EH6TunerDaniel]

Are people cutting the firewall for better access?

I did, But i also have an RBC manifold.

 

[sacklunch]

PLEASE help me sort out what coolant delete/reroute needs to be done on my K24a2 + stock intake manifold + Type S TB. What needs or should be deleted? Are there aftermarket options that simply these?
I understand that because I'm using the stock manifold, I don't need to worry about deleting coolant lines between head and manifold.
But what about the:

1. Upper coolant housing and hoses in pic below: do I replace this entire housing (no. 5 in pic)? Or do I keep it and, if so, do I need to delete any of the other lines (numbers 1-4 in pic)?
2. On this same housing, do I need numbers 6-7?
3. On the back of the engine, do I keep numbers 8-10? I'm using the stock K24a2 water pump and MAP swivel thermostat.

 

[4azdmunky]

For mine, I blocked off #9 and routed #10 up to the water jacket adapter or port on the right side of the intake manifold.
I don’t even have #3 and #2
#4 goes to the big hose you cut a piece out of (see the kswap write up on Mitchs auto parts https://www.mitchsautoparts.com/pages/how-to-swap-a-k20a2-into-a-mr2-spyder-zzw30)

the port at #5 on mine is a plug.

all that being side I replaced all that with ktuned parts for cleaner install.

return from front goes into thermostat. Back of thermostat hose goes up to port on right of intake manifold. the rest of coolant goes left into the water pump jacket.
return from engine goes out top through #4 which you cut down in length
#1 goes to heater hose and t’s to overflow tank.

heater return is up front, which is why there’s only one heater line in the back.

after burping the system, no overheating issues.

 

[dblotii]

It looks like you are using the KSwap stat housing which probably means you are using a single poppet thermostat instead of dual poppet. This is a significant mistake because the engine is designed to utilize a dual poppet and dual poppet has numerous advantages. One poppet controls the flow to the radiator and the other to the bypass circuit. You want the bypass shut down when you are hot and at full load.

 

[sacklunch]

It looks like you are using the KSwap stat housing which probably means you are using a single poppet thermostat instead of dual poppet. This is a significant mistake because the engine is designed to utilize a dual poppet and dual poppet has numerous advantages. One poppet controls the flow to the radiator and the other to the bypass circuit. You want the bypass shut down when you are hot and at full load.

Thanks for the reply! I'm using MAPs thermostat housing here. What alternative part would you suggest?

 

[dblotii]

Thanks for the reply! I'm using MAPs thermostat housing here. What alternative part would you suggest?

I am using a stock RSX-s stat/housing. Sat and housing are 1-piece molded together. Requires a 2-piece S shape hose connection. You might check out the TSX stat/housing. The MAP housing does use a single-poppet stat, and does allow proper bypass flow, but doesn't allow shutting off the bypass flow at high load and high temps (like OEM) so you are sacrificing peak pump flow rate when you really need it. There is a reason why the OEM is dual-poppet (like all new engines). Not sure if you could use a dual poppet stat in-place of what they supply.

Dave

 

[TeeMS]

you cant use a dual poppet stat in the cheap aftermarket housings. I'm using the stock tsx housing, which is the best option for k24. all of the cheap aluminum housings leak, including ktuned(trash) and a lot of people have issues not getting up to operating temperature.

 

[sacklunch]

you cant use a dual poppet stat in the cheap aftermarket housings. I'm using the stock tsx housing, which is the best option for k24. all of the cheap aluminum housings leak, including ktuned(trash) and a lot of people have issues not getting up to operating temperature.

Well I'm not sure what real alternatives there are, then! Or is there a non-cheap aluminum housing you recommend? So you're saying this K-Tuned one is bad? Not sure what more expensive options even exist!

 

[TeeMS]

I'm saying there is nothing better than oem. If you use one of those housings you have to take the issues that come with them. Tractuff makes a quality piece, but it does not swivel.

 

[sacklunch]

I'm saying there is nothing better than oem. If you use one of those housings you have to take the issues that come with them. Tractuff makes a quality piece, but it does not swivel.

I appreciate your response. I have a few items from Traftuff and really like their products. What about their new redesigned housing? It looks like you can select a 90 degree option. Do you know if one of these will work for the MRS?

 

[BYSpyder]

Well I'm not sure what real alternatives there are, then! Or is there a non-cheap aluminum housing you recommend? So you're saying this K-Tuned one is bad? Not sure what more expensive options even exist!

I use that one. The swivel helps line up the plumbing for sure. It did leak after startup and I had to tighten it down. I think if you're careful to seal and torque it on install, you'll be fine. The tough part is, you can't really install it before putting the engine in because once you bolt it in, it locks the swivel angle.

 

[dblotii]

Well I'm not sure what real alternatives there are, then! Or is there a non-cheap aluminum housing you recommend? So you're saying this K-Tuned one is bad? Not sure what more expensive options even exist!

I see that K-tuned has redesigned this to take an OEM-style dual-poppet thermostat; so this should be a good choice if it is well-made and doesn't leak.

Dave

 

[dblotii]

If anyone is interested in a well-refined calibration for Hondata, I have one that I would be happy to share. This is for the following specs engine: K20 stock everything (from a 2004 RSX-S),simple 3" CAI with a 120 degree bend, stock PRB manifold and throttle body, K-tuned 4-2-1 Swap header adapted to custom 2.5" exhaust with Vibrant GESI metal-core catalyst and Magnaflow 14210 muffler. One of the nice things about this calibration is that the transition to high-lift cam is ultra smooth and occurs at 4700 rpm. I based this on a lot of calibrations from similar state of tune K20's and spent a lot of time with avoiding sharp discontinuities in ignition and cam timing curves. I also avoid having to move the cam phasers right at high-lift switchover so the oil flow demand from the VTEC doesn't coincide with demand to the phasers. I spent a bit of trial and error time with determining the full-throttle cam timing points, and the result is a very strong and smooth torque curve with an awesome 5500-8000 swell of power. A lot of the calibrations I looked at had huge inconsistencies in transitions in the cam tables (manifold pressure and speed axes) which require a lot of interpolations and really tax the ability of the cam phaser feedback control system. The tables in this calibration are smoother. If you want to give this a try PM me.

Dave

 

[TeeMS]

If anyone is interested in a well-refined calibration for Hondata, I have one that I would be happy to share. This is for the following specs engine: K20 stock everything (from a 2004 RSX-S),simple 3" CAI with a 120 degree bend, stock PRB manifold and throttle body, K-tuned 4-2-1 Swap header adapted to custom 2.5" exhaust with Vibrant GESI metal-core catalyst and Magnaflow 14210 muffler. One of the nice things about this calibration is that the transition to high-lift cam is ultra smooth and occurs at 4700 rpm. I based this on a lot of calibrations from similar state of tune K20's and spent a lot of time with avoiding sharp discontinuities in ignition and cam timing curves. I also avoid having to move the cam phasers right at high-lift switchover so the oil flow demand from the VTEC doesn't coincide with demand to the phasers. I spent a bit of trial and error time with determining the full-throttle cam timing points, and the result is a very strong and smooth torque curve with an awesome 5500-8000 swell of power. A lot of the calibrations I looked at had huge inconsistencies in transitions in the cam tables (manifold pressure and speed axes) which require a lot of interpolations and really tax the ability of the cam phaser feedback control system. The tables in this calibration are smoother. If you want to give this a try PM me.

Dave

you should probably upload the calibration somewhere with a warning for people to use at their own risk... in my experience putting your self out there like that leads to people wanting you to tweak the map to their specific setup...for free... a pal or a person here or there no problem but when you get 10+ people wanting basically free tunes and trouble shooting ehhhhhhhh

 

[Tailedfox]

A couple silly questions.

I have a k20a2 with ep3 gearbox installed using the MAP kit.
I spent all of Sunday trying everything to get it to shift how I want.

I've gotten to the point where reverse is good, 5th and 6th is move right until you feel the "wall" then up and down which is feeling good.
The problem is 1st and 2nd. I would expect to move left until the "wall" and then up and down, however the up and down is somewhere between centered and the wall which makes finding 1st and 2nd unpleasant which in turn makes me question when shifting from 2nd whether its going into 3rd or back to 1st.

At first I thought maybe it was the short shifter lever I had previously installed, so I removed that. Still the same issue.

A thing to bare in mind is that the car is still on 4 jack stands. I see on MAP's install guide they say don't adjust the gears until last when the car is done and on the ground.

So my questions are:

1. Does being on the ground make that much difference setting up the shift?

2. The adjustable arm on the shift mechanism, there is no fixed pivot point on the arm so all you are adjusting is overall length of the arm. Adjusting each side individually has no affect other than increasing the overall length of the arm? ( I know this sounds silly, it just seems weird that I can get the up and down throws so perfect but the left to right is so whack, it feels as though I am missing how to adjust the left to right throw.)

3. With regards to the cooling hose from the firewall to the thermostat. I used the stock hose and stock thermostat. It fits, but there is quite a kink. Will this be an issue or will the pressure just kind of make it do what it needs to do?

Thanks

 

[TeeMS]

those shifter adapters are junk and those "walls" you speak of will never go away with any adjustment. the cable bracket bends, the bell crank bends, too many moving parts. your either going to have to shift slow if you want to use that. or use RSX shifter cables and shifter, oem or aftermarket, the car will shift 1000x better, like an RSX

 

[Tailedfox]

those shifter adapters are junk and those "walls" you speak of will never go away with any adjustment. the cable bracket bends, the bell crank bends, too many moving parts. your either going to have to shift slow if you want to use that. or use RSX shifter cables and shifter, oem or aftermarket, the car will shift 1000x better, like an RSX

Damn. Thanks, not what I wanted to hear