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I went from looped lines to the greased rack conversion (you can find this in Spyderchat). Very big improvement. A lot of the improvement comes from removing the "piston" in the middle of the rack.
I love me some manual steering. I have an aftermarket Quaife R&P on my other car. I didn't find the EPS to be a limiting factor on track, but de-powering the rack feels inevitable with comments like this. 🤣
 
I went from looped lines to the greased rack conversion (you can find this in Spyderchat). Very big improvement. A lot of the improvement comes from removing the "piston" in the middle of the rack.
Im planing to do that once I obtain a salvaged rack. Once I remove my rack I will probably sell it to someone that wants to do the same.
 
How harsh is your steering when the car is stopped?
It is high effort but similar (maybe 20% more effort) compared to my former MK1 Mr2. The effort will depend somewhat on how wide and sticky your front tires are. I am running 205's R-compound and it is not an issue for me. I suspect you will work up more of a sweat at an autocross.
 
Before replacing my struts and other major suspension parts, my car was unstable over 100 mph. After installing stock struts and other components, the car is more planted up to 110. Bumps at high speeds don't scare me anymore. I do have strut tower braces on the front and rear and bracing underneath the car. My extra 15 lbs also helps!
 
Discussion starter · #66 ·
Before replacing my struts and other major suspension parts, my car was unstable over 100 mph. After installing stock struts and other components, the car is more planted up to 110. Bumps at high speeds don't scare me anymore. I do have strut tower braces on the front and rear and bracing underneath the car. My extra 15 lbs also helps!
How is on windy roads?
 
Discussion starter · #70 ·
It'll be next year before I can test the stuff on track to see how it helps, but I printed the side airflow directors in PETG-CF and got the center lip to try since it was pretty cheap from Toyota.

Have to get this lump sorted before I can put it on through. 😅

View attachment 115545
Side airflow directors?
 
Here's my high speed story: It was spring of 2008 and my aunt had passed and I was headed for her memorial service at the cemetery in Central Oregon near Bend. I had lived in that area for several years and thought I knew it well but I somehow managed to take a wrong turn. The landscape there is very similar: all flat sagebrush and juniper trees. At some point I realized my mistake and that I was headed in a completely wrong direction. I was driving my 2005 Spyder with the top down and I think I still had the OEM tires. After I got myself turned around it was pedal to the metal as the time was getting short. I know I passed 100 mph by a ways but I never saw my top speed. I was too busy watching for coyotes and antelope which are numerous in that area. It was exhilarating to say the least with the top down but I recall that the car was completely steady. I compared it to my 1969 BMW 1600 which I drove for hours on end in Montana at 90 mph (no daytime speed limit in the earl 70's).
 
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Not sure if you fixed the issue or not, but I had a lot of the same issues with my 2003 and double checked alignment, all suspension nuts and bolts, and only fixed the issue by switching back to OEM wheels and OEM lug nuts.

I had been using Sparco FF1's and tuner lugnuts with extended threads but the tuner lugnuts just never seemed to clamp down as well as the OEM shank style on OEM wheels. All the highway shimmy and floaties went away with OEM wheels and lug nuts, which is a shame because the Sparcos are so lightweight.

I considered trying out extended ARP studs but decided it wasn't worth the hassle.
 
Discussion starter · #75 ·
Not sure if you fixed the issue or not, but I had a lot of the same issues with my 2003 and double checked alignment, all suspension nuts and bolts, and only fixed the issue by switching back to OEM wheels and OEM lug nuts.

I had been using Sparco FF1's and tuner lugnuts with extended threads but the tuner lugnuts just never seemed to clamp down as well as the OEM shank style on OEM wheels. All the highway shimmy and floaties went away with OEM wheels and lug nuts, which is a shame because the Sparcos are so lightweight.

I considered trying out extended ARP studs but decided it wasn't worth the hassle.
Not fixed yet (pending to change the struts).

As mentioned in my first post:

I run oem wheels using Yokohama advan neova ad08rs (installed at the same time) with factory tire measures (185/55/R15 front and 205/50/R15 rear)
 
These clones of the OEM pieces that trim the area ahead of the front tires.

My car doesn't have them, and also didn't have the long center lip.
One of mine was torn off from chunk of metal fell off a 18 Wheeler those and the under center spoiler does more than I thought. I got new wheels n tires after my koni adjustable upgrade 200tw are sticky. Love them. That chunk took out my front driver tire and like 6 other cars behind me.
 
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