[Oneblueyedog]

I got disassembly down to the bearings. Found galling in the bearing plate. Yes the outer races rotate. Hub and output shaft gear came off rather easy. I heated the hub. I removed the output gear without heat. The modded puller for the hub worked good but I had to remove it on the last few turns to change the bolts to a shorter length (case bolts). I bought hardened washers for the puller. The gear puller- rent from Oreilly Auto but actually it’s just a deposit at full price. Use it, take it back. They refund it to your card. I used the 2 ton puller. You have to orient the puller to avoid the frame and brake line.

I may not replace the input shaft bearing because there is no perceptible side play.

For the notorious output shaft bearing- it’s shot. And I will likely replace the bearing plate.

I want to go with the Corolla 5th gear set.

Here are the photos of today.

Home mod puller for hub

Rented (borrowed) output shaft gear puller

Output shaft bearing (removed circlip)

input shaft bearing (will have to tilt engine to R and R)

The galling on the inside of the bearing plate- output shaft end

Not really any galling in the input shaft bearing side.

I'll post a vid of the side play of the output shaft bearing if it is decent. The temps today in the garage were high. My videography was not steady.

 

[Oneblueyedog]

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

 

[Oneblueyedog]

Toyota Corolla (E120): Overhaul

Toyota Corolla (E120) 2002–2008 Repair Manual. Automatic transmission / trans. Manual transaxle assy (c59). Overhaul

www.tcorolla.net

Good resource for teardown in text form

 

[Oneblueyedog]

Question. Is using engine assembly lube ok for the needle bearings, gear teeth and such, or grease?

Anyone think that this bearing retainer plate is good to use again? Here I point out the wear.

 

[DaWaN]

I would not bother lubing anything, as soon as you fill up the box it pretty much submerges half of the components in oil. A few spins of the input shaft and everything is lubricated.

As for the bearing retainer plate, I would not run it. As a quick fix you could sand it down a bit. But given the wear, it would not clamp down evenly. A better fix would be to machine all faces down evenly, but not sure how to do that properly at home.
If you are thinking of a Corolla 5th gear, you might as well steal the bearing retainer plate from that box.

 

[Oneblueyedog]

Thanks DaWaN.

I will replace it. The bad bearing pounding and vibrating really has an effect. Now I'm hunting for the tool to get the bad one off.

 

[DaWaN]

I quickly checked and the bearing retainer plate seems pretty reasonably priced from Toyota at around 40 USD.
I think the part number is 33151-12021 (but please double check).
The plate is used in a lot of Toyota boxes, so should not be a hard part to find in a junk yard. But I am not sure how many manuals you find in the junkyard in the US.
In Europe around 95% of the FWD Toyota's are manuals.

As for lubricating: I assumed you fix and drive the car soon.
If you plan on storing the box for a long time I would cover parts with gearbox oil or put some oil in the box and spin the input shaft.
Not sure about grease or assembly lube. With engines, the grease will be washed out and the oil will be changed soon. In a gearbox it is not uncommon to run 60.000 miles on the same oil, so I am not sure about the long term effect of having washed out grease and/or assembly lube in the oil.

 

[Oneblueyedog]

The plate is used in a lot of Toyota boxes, so should not be a hard part to find in a junk yard.

It has been a while since I pulled parts. Not even sure if they will let you. Called 2 places and they said they don't carry manual trans. Hunting is all part of the process. I know I can get them retail, but gears are gears, plates are plates. I got time. I'll bag up the open end since it is humid here. Parts not in until the 26th.

So far I'm into the project for time and $100 parts- bearing and oil. The gears I removed are excellent, just not 40/29 Corollla. Gas is not going down in price so it might be worth it. Best price on the bearing plate I found was $20, plus shipping. I will bet it is not oem.

How is your Spyder driving with just the single bearing change? Did you go with the engine swap? I had a good time in Amsterdam back in the day. Especially Karting. They don't have places like that in USA. Dialed down here but fun.

 

[rmeller]

... Called 2 places and they said they don't carry manual trans...

That is ridiculous. These are pick and pull lots, right? Does that mean that they won't buy a car for scrap if it has a manual? Does it mean that when they get a manual, they pull it and throw it away?

I can imagine that they would not pull a manual and stock it.

 

[Oneblueyedog]

I can imagine that they would not pull a manual and stock it.

Ridiculous I agree, but I did not try that hard.

Only called a few out of the hundreds here in Houston. Called ones that had Toyota or Asian in the name. Unknown if they are pick and pulls just went by Google and street view. Then I had to get back to work.

 

[rmeller]

The pick and pulls will have manuals, and that will certainly be bottom dollar. There may not be many of them, and you may have to look at a few cars to find one.

 

[DaWaN]

How is your Spyder driving with just the single bearing change? Did you go with the engine swap?

Nothing as permanent as a temporary fix... I have been driving around 5000 miles so far without issues. Changing the oil made a huge difference to the shifting.
So far she is holding up great and I have not been kind to the box. I just completed a 2000 mile road trip last week, I shall update my thread with some pictures.

I still need to build my 6 speed box (C64 box with C63 6th gear and torsen LSD).
Engine is still the 1ZZ-FE for now, not having the time for a K-swap any time soon.

I would expect you could pull the gears and the plate out of a car at a pull-a-part?
No wrecking yard would take the effort to pull individual gearbox parts. Maybe they list the complete box, but then they would charge quite a lot of money.
I think your best bet is to do a junkyard crawl and pull the gears and plate yourself. If you do not mind spending a bit more, you could buy a complete box.

I had a good time in Amsterdam back in the day. Especially Karting. They don't have places like that in USA. Dialed down here but fun.

Amsterdam is a nice city, only 30 minutes drive from my home. When I go there I do avoid the city center, as it is riddled with tourists.
Never knew karting places were dailed down in the US. When I go karting, I usually beat all my friends. I used to be a driver for a FSAE team in Delft back in the day. But nowadays I just drive for fun and do some HPDE in the MR-2.

 

[Oneblueyedog]

I decided to remove the bearing in pieces. I masked off the surrounding areas and started cutting. Here is the outer race. It came out relatively easily when I cut away parts of the races. I cut, vacuumed, repeat.

I added tape to the bearing void, pretty liberal use of it. It was Gorilla brand tape. I used the outer race to cut a piece to press on the back gear past the race. The tape held on pretty well.

The outer race and plastic cage…

 

[Oneblueyedog]

The inner race. Note the non mirror inner race surface…

 

[Oneblueyedog]

I tried to rent a puller from my local parts store that would fit but both were too large to fit inside the bearing void. I’m on the hunt for one that will this morning, otherwise it will be mail order. All parts are in except the Redline Oil.

 

[Oneblueyedog]

Found a Cal Van tool at a rent shop. After rapping on the race with a chisel. Put the puller on and it came off easily. On the inside surface there’s a crack. Just like the reference thread.

Note the discoloration of the inner surface. Heat? The crack is going across diagonally.

 

[Oneblueyedog]

Now I’ll clean up my garage for the reassembly.
I really appreciate all of the tips, instructions, encouragement and advice that got me this far.

 

[Oneblueyedog]

Set up of parts. I’ll need to get some freeze spray for the shaft.

I need to heat the inner race.
Maybe the light bulb technique? I don’t want to damage the seals or the grease inside.
I also saw a heated oil bath technique.

I saw in the Mad Fox vid that he used an old inner race to tap the new one in. Seems like a good way to do it.

 

[Oneblueyedog]

Damn. Had it almost all ready to seal the end. Torqued the output shaft locknut. Staked the indention and it cracked the lip off of the nut where it mashes into the stake indent on the shaft.

No output shaft locknuts exist in Texas today.


Here are some pics.

I lowered the engine. This is all I got, and that was enough. It think it can go lower via cv axle removal. Removed 3 engine mount bolts and rear exhaust bolts.

Shaft freezing and bearing/gear heating worked pretty well.

 

[Oneblueyedog]

The output shaft gear slipped on by gloved hand. The input hub took more tapping. There's no way I could have driven it down without the tilting.