[Gouky]

Another thought on that cheaper flywheel and clutch. I've been looking over the NHRA regulations because i'm going to play with mine at the track. anything 11.49 or faster in the quarter needs an SFI approved clutch and flywheel and i can't find evidence of that XTD flywheel being approved.

Of course, for most people this simply won't matter. a spyder without weight reduction will need 300-320rwhp to get there and it only matters at NHRA drag strips. This only really matters for me because i'm going to try to go way faster than that and also because my local track is lucas oil raceway in Indianapolis and i imagine they are pretty strict about NHRA rules there.

Also, since i just took the stocker off i was able to weigh it and compare them:
Stock: 17.6lbs
XTD: 11.6lbs
ACT: 10.1lbs

I think all three are perfectly adequate for this swap, i'm not trying to say one is superior to the other simply comparing them.

 

[Not Too Old For 2 Seater]

You Gotta Love Trailblazers

Thank you for and Gouky taking on this project.

I can't speak for others, but for me reading about all of the hard work that has gone into making the AR swap a possibility for us Spyder owners has been priceless.

Looking forward to your speedy and fun conclusions!

Paul

 

[phattires]

Another thought on that cheaper flywheel and clutch. I've been looking over the NHRA regulations because i'm going to play with mine at the track. anything 11.49 or faster in the quarter needs an SFI approved clutch and flywheel and i can't find evidence of that XTD flywheel being approved.

Of course, for most people this simply won't matter. a spyder without weight reduction will need 300-320rwhp to get there and it only matters at NHRA drag strips. This only really matters for me because i'm going to try to go way faster than that and also because my local track is lucas oil raceway in Indianapolis and i imagine they are pretty strict about NHRA rules there.

Also, since i just took the stocker off i was able to weigh it and compare them:
Stock: 17.6lbs
XTD: 11.6lbs
ACT: 10.1lbs

I think all three are perfectly adequate for this swap, i'm not trying to say one is superior to the other simply comparing them.

That's a interesting rule .... and I'm not surprised XTD isn't on the list . I doubt any serious drag racer would use an XTD but I think it will work fine for me .... I don't think I'll be breaking 11.49 anytime soon . But it maybe good info for someone .

Man ... that stocker sure is a chubby little rascal !!!

 

[phattires]

Thank you for and Gouky taking on this project.

I can't speak for others, but for me reading about all of the hard work that has gone into making the AR swap a possibility for us Spyder owners has been priceless.

Looking forward to your speedy and fun conclusions!

Paul

Thanks Paul but I can't take any credit for the 2AR swap . Gouky's been working on it for quite a while now . I'm just here to see if I can help speed it up a little . It's a lot for one guy to do . Glad you're enjoying the read ...

 

[phattires]

I did a few rough measurement for the coolant reroute and the exhaust and ran into a couple obstacles . The first being the clutch line seems to be about dead center where the exhaust needs to go . So that needs to be moved to the drives side where it should have been in the first place . The coolant line I thought could be slid forward can't so it will need at least 1 splice . To do that the gas tank will have to be dropped and all the a/c lines . When I get a little further I post some pictures .

I still need to remove the soft top so I can cut the firewall for better access . But the top shouldn't have to be removed after I figure it out .

 

[phattires]

I finally got the soft top out so I cut some holes ....

The coolant tube needs to cut the corner so it will be out of the way of the exhaust .

I was hoping I could get by with 1 splice in the coolant tube , not going to happen , it's going to take one more for a total of 2 .

I went ahead and cut my access hole ...probably bigger than I need . I will probably go ahead and make a header while the engine is in there . Getting anxious to see how the oe header fits , or not .

I also started draining fluids on the spyder the 2ar is going into ... coolant seems to be the biggest mess maker . Removed the rear bumper and exhaust .

 

[markthegrea]

So far Gouky and I ... that's assuming we get the swaps done . Mark from Illinois is a maybe if he gets his swap done . We need a couple 2zz and 1zz to see how they shake out , all at the same track same time ..well 2 at a time .
Should be fun .....

I'm completely in. Me and the boys are excited! I can't believe you are going to all this trouble just to beat my 2zz at the track...

Hey, so the exhaust is on the other side?

1. How you going to keep heat out of the cabin with that big hole? You going to replace the firewall?
2. How you planning to route the exhaust?

 

[Gouky]

I believe the 2GR version is the one he's going through all the trouble with to make into a fast Spyder.

 

[phattires]

I'm completely in. Me and the boys are excited! I can't believe you are going to all this trouble just to beat my 2zz at the track...

Hey, so the exhaust is on the other side?

1. How you going to keep heat out of the cabin with that big hole? You going to replace the firewall?
2. How you planning to route the exhaust?

Shouldn't take much to beat a 2zz !!! :chuncky:

Yes exhaust is on the dark side . Everything in yellow is just for mock up . The normal 2ar swap wont have the firewall hole cut . I'm trying out the oem header for the Ca. guys too see if it will fit and how much cutting is involved . It's much easier with the big hole . The swap is going in a black spyder .

The exhaust runs under the engine then I'm either using a TMoon or a couple short mufflers thru the bumper grill .The cat is in the oem header ... so after the engine it's a clear shot .

 

[phattires]

I believe the 2GR version is the one he's going through all the trouble with to make into a fast Spyder.

Yes ... the 2GR is next ..... the fast one . The 2ar is just a warm up .

The 2gr is the one that will have the firewall cut and yes it will get filled in ....

 

[MRSJP]

no one should be surprised some people decide to have access through the firewall
by cutting big sections there. After all this is common sense to have access to ever
more complicated engines and ancillaries. Toyota like many just thinks cost saving
with boot access while others have no other way to access the engine properly for
example vans and the Porsche 987 which prob could be used for the MRS?
https://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techa...rsche-987-Cayman/02-ENGINE-Removing_Engine_Access_Panels/images_small/pic04.jpg
https://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techa...Porsche-987-Cayman/02-ENGINE-Removing_Engine_Access_Panels/images_med/pic05.jpg

 

[christo4_99]

redacted

 

[Gouky]

https://frankensteinmotorworks.squarespace.com/mr2-spyder-shop/eb6x-transmission-shift-linkage-kit

WTF Really???! I hope that's a typo but I know it's not. Here I go again. So my trans went out completely and finding little jewels like this waiting in the wings sets me aback quite a bit. Anyone want a silver hardtop in C.Fl. hit me up. I'm not gonna sink this kinda money into it. I know this post lacks taste... just not in the best mood today.

I'm not 100% sure what you're saying with this post but I'd be happy to discuss it with you if there's an issue. It would probably be best to post the comments/complaints in the swap kit development thread: http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/sh...ms/showthread.php?116977-Thoughts-on-a-2AR-FE-swap-kit-for-the-Spyder&p=1992418 or feel free to drop me an e-mail if you want to keep it out of the public forum: Marc@frankensteinmotorworks.com

Thank you

 

[phattires]

The weather started to cooperate this week after 2 1/2 weeks of near 0 temps . So I'm officially 2 1/2 behind . It's rough getting back in the groove after being lazy for so long . Decided to do some things that don't require much thinking so I decided to start dropping the 1zz that the 2ar is going to replace .

Run into something I haven't seen before , when I was taking the rear strut bolt out I found a washer that was broke in half . Seems strange and have no idea why it broke ... thought that was interesting .

Have to have a pic with the 1zz out .... I have a lot of cleaning to do !

Too much time on my hands I had to buy some new wheels and tires . I've been wanting to try out the Federal 595 rs-r's , going square with 205/50/15 and 15x8 .... yep a little stretch

 

[speedworxs]

awesome

i like this thread already!
i hated reading 70+ pages for the k20 swap, and then still not knowing what would work and what i would end up spending...
almost lost me at the cutting the firewall step, but you said it wasn't necessary
the only thing i'm worried about here, i've never taken a transmission apart before.

and the final amount would go down a bit, if you count the parts you could resell back to scion people (ac and steering rack)

 

[phattires]

i like this thread already!
i hated reading 70+ pages for the k20 swap, and then still not knowing what would work and what i would end up spending...
almost lost me at the cutting the firewall step, but you said it wasn't necessary
the only thing i'm worried about here, i've never taken a transmission apart before.

and the final amount would go down a bit, if you count the parts you could resell back to scion people (ac and steering rack)

Yes I'm trying to give as much info as I can ....

Correct , the firewall doesn't have to get cut . Gouky will be offering a header that will fit with no cutting required . I'm trying to use the oem header and I'm sure there will be some cutting required for that to work . We'll see

I had never split a trans either so the first one I had help . Then after the write up I did one by myself and it's not as bad as one would think . If you take your time and read the "how to " a couple times I would think you wouldn't have any problem .

Yes cost will vary , the best way to save money is to fine a complete dropout with the 6spd manual where as I bought the dropout with the auto trans . I think in the end I'll be between 5-6k .

 

[phattires]

I got the engine sitting in my mock up chassis . It's needs a little hammer action on the passenger side top corner of the engine to make it fit . I'd rather he dropped the engine a little but then you start loosing ground clearance .

The oem header fits but it touches the firewall crossmember so it will need to be clearanced . Should be easy with a little radius cutout . I'm surprised how close it came to fitting .

And one from the side

 

[MetalPGT]

Why does the top of the engine is hitting the firewall? Don't you use Gouky engine mounts?

 

[phattires]

Why does the top of the engine is hitting the firewall? Don't you use Gouky engine mounts?

Yes I'm using Goukys engine mounts .... he will probably chime in . But it's kind of a compromise to have the engine mounted high enough that you have enough ground clearance. I think he was going for stockish height so the exhaust would clear / not scrape .

 

[Gouky]

Yeah, the engine does interfere slightly with the firewall. The 2AR is much taller than the 1ZZ at the top. I also needed to leave room for the A/C compressor at the bottom which compromised things slightly.

here you can see the hole i cut during the initial installation:

here you can see with the piece back on top that it is only a little bit:

but of course you need to make a little extra room for the engine to rock back and forth on the engine mounts.

Cutting the body is not required. some gentle work with a body hammer can stretch that area the little bit that is needed.