[Fast1one]

Great work! Another hang up for us California guys is the "vapor canister", which I think is also is referred to as the EVAP system for the fuel tank or charcoal canister. This captures evaporated fuel from the fuel tank to be combusted rather than vented to the atmosphere. I think to have the car truly smog legal, these components would need to be adapted to the spyder.

In speaking with a BAR tech over the phone, he was overly pessimistic about the whole thing, specifically the fuel tank and EVAP system. Looking at the diagrams, I'm not so sure. From what I've read some inspection stations will let the fuel tank requirement slide so long as the EVAP system is reasonably adapted from the donor vehicle.

Any thoughts on this?

Generic image, ignore the carburetor

 

[Gouky]

the ECU's operation of the evap system for actual use is only through the purge valve and i strongly recommend leaving that attached and the evap system intact. all the other sensors on there are to check that it is operating properly. i do not believe those sensors are exactly compatible between the Scion TC and the MR2 Spyder so some adaptations would need to be made but that should be possible since the systems are from the same generation and work effectively the same.

 

[phattires]

Great work! Another hang up for us California guys is the "vapor canister", which I think is also is referred to as the EVAP system for the fuel tank or charcoal canister. This captures evaporated fuel from the fuel tank to be combusted rather than vented to the atmosphere. I think to have the car truly smog legal, these components would need to be adapted to the spyder.

In speaking with a BAR tech over the phone, he was overly pessimistic about the whole thing, specifically the fuel tank and EVAP system. Looking at the diagrams, I'm not so sure. From what I've read some inspection stations will let the fuel tank requirement slide so long as the EVAP system is reasonably adapted from the donor vehicle.

Any thoughts on this?

the ECU's operation of the evap system for actual use is only through the purge valve and i strongly recommend leaving that attached and the evap system intact. all the other sensors on there are to check that it is operating properly. i do not believe those sensors are exactly compatible between the Scion TC and the MR2 Spyder so some adaptations would need to be made but that should be possible since the systems are from the same generation and work effectively the same.

I have no plans for figuring this out . I'm probably going to remove the canister . Now if Gouky wants to I'd certainly play along ......

 

[phattires]

Here's some pics and measurements for the hammer action needed :

overall view ...

the stud that is circled and has white paint on the end needs cut off , it will hit the t-stat cover if not removed . The circle above needs a little clearance for a plug on the alternator ... probably not necessary but I like a little extra clearance . 8.25 up from the top of the crossmember and 9.75 radius from the stud pictured , where they intersect .

This is for the clearance on the top of the engine starts at the left where there's an overlap of sheet metal with a U shape in it . stay about 3/8" down from the seem to the right about 4" then straight down 2" . Then go back to the top left again and come down along the bump out with the 2 big rivets (tops painted white) and follow the contours around it and connect it to the other 2" leg .

This is for the exhaust clearance if your're going to use the oem header ....I'll show more pics when I get it done . It's going to be about 4" wide and go in about 3/4 " .

 

[Gouky]

I have no plans for figuring this out . I'm probably going to remove the canister . Now if Gouky wants to I'd certainly play along ......

For most people it's very likely easiest to just leave the canister there and hook up the purge line to the purge valve and be done with it. everything else won't be powered up but it'll still use the charcoal canister to prevent smells.

i did remove the canister from the race car and i can talk you through what i did there but it was harder than just leaving it there.

also, on your notes above about the clearance, the alternator plug clearance is not necessary as long as you install the harness before installing the engine in chassis. but spending 10 seconds gaining 1/4" or 1/2" of clearance there certainly won't hurt.

 

[phattires]

For most people it's very likely easiest to just leave the canister there and hook up the purge line to the purge valve and be done with it. everything else won't be powered up but it'll still use the charcoal canister to prevent smells.

i did remove the canister from the race car and i can talk you through what i did there but it was harder than just leaving it there.

also, on your notes above about the clearance, the alternator plug clearance is not necessary as long as you install the harness before installing the engine in chassis. but spending 10 seconds gaining 1/4" or 1/2" of clearance there certainly won't hurt.

I think I'm still going to remove the canister so when I get that far I'll hit you up .....

 

[phattires]

Here's the pics after hammering / cutting .....

Rough cut in crossmember ...

Finished all but some primer / black paint , I could probably make some of the weld in patches if anyone is interested
Also note this part is "not" necessary if you're not going with the oem catted header ....... The coolant tube must also be rerouted , that's coming soon .

Probably cant see the contours but I started with hammering on the two big rivets .... don't be afraid to go outside the lines ....

Hammered in for the plug on the alternator and cut the stud of which you cant see because it's shiny ...probably gained about 3/8 to 1/2" clearance .

 

[phattires]

I feel like I'm running of time .... this thing was suppose to be running by now . I've been a little lacks with updates , because I've been doing some boring maintenance . The brakes were in terrible shape ,replaced a couple calipers , pads and rotors , and the parking cables while the gas tank is dropped . Also had a suspension rattle , found that the top nut on the strut was loose or had never been tight enough from when I did the lowering springs a few years back .

So here's some dimensions for cutting the holes in the firewall and tunnel for the coolant reroute ....

The dimensions run from the sound deadening straight edge and from the firewall inside the cab . I used the yellow car so you could see where to draw your straight edge , it's easier to see than in the black car . then switch to the black car . I'm going to us a 2" hole saw so you end up with about a 2.25" inch hole . They will probably get egged shaped when I actually install to allow for some engine movement . And I will get some kind of rubber edging for the sheetmetal edges .

These are for the hole in the firewall ....

 

[Gouky]

Keep in mind the front engine pivot is quite stiff to prevent this area from moving around too much. you should not need much additional clearance here.

 

[phattires]

OK ... here's how I went about the coolant tube redo . I bought some stainless tube 1.5" od x 1/16th wall to use for my joints , you need two pieces 2" long .

first pic is of the passenger side coolant tube

this is where you make your cuts for the first splice ...

The next splice is in the straight section and doesn't really matter where you make the cut , just so you leave room from the welded on bracket . It just gets cut so it will swivel . And this also shows the 1.5 od x 2" pieces for the splice

This is how it will look in place , still needs to be welded but I want to double check everything before I do that . The splice pieces will give it strength and take some of the heat for welding , that oem tube is super thin .

I did put the gas tank back in just to make sure nothing hit and all was fine ...

I will probably make some kind of jig or fixture so I can replicate these without having to put it back in the car for location / welding .

 

[phattires]

Keep in mind the front engine pivot is quite stiff to prevent this area from moving around too much. you should not need much additional clearance here.

Yeah , so if I do egg it does the engine want to move up , or does it torque down ?

 

[Gouky]

Yeah , so if I do egg it does the engine want to move up , or does it torque down ?

It should pivot around that front mount bolt. the coolant neck output should move down on the heaviest acceleration about 1/8" at most and move up on engine deceleration just a tiny bit.

 

[rcntype]

Nice thread, loving the pics and custom work.

 

[phattires]

Cut holes in the car the 2ar is going in and put my rubber trim around the holes ...

I had to buy a 35mm / 1.375" silicone hose , two 10" legs on a 45 degree angle . I couldn't find one with 8" legs . Here's where to cut .

A chop saw works well for nice clean square cuts ... just go slow ...

 

[phattires]

Started making brackets to hold my airbox in place . Looking pretty oem . I was hoping to squeeze the battery in between the fuse box and the airbox but the elbow is too long for that . Probably mount the battery on the rear crossmember now ....

 

[Gouky]

That airbox looks clean in there. What application is that from?

Also, where did you get that hose? a silicone hose with longer legs is nice.

 

[phattires]

That airbox looks clean in there. What application is that from?

Also, where did you get that hose? a silicone hose with longer legs is nice.

07 -11 camry air box

https://www.siliconehose.com/

 

[Gouky]

That's great to know on both of those. i had looked around for a narrow airbox that would fit there but i had missed this one.

and yeah, the battery will have to go on the crossmember for sure but the good news is there is room for a full stock size battery down there and the stock cables will reach. I will likely make a battery relocation kit after the intake kit i'm working on. It's a part i wish i did not have to make but the battery needs to go somewhere.

 

[phattires]

That's great to know on both of those. i had looked around for a narrow airbox that would fit there but i had missed this one.

and yeah, the battery will have to go on the crossmember for sure but the good news is there is room for a full stock size battery down there and the stock cables will reach. I will likely make a battery relocation kit after the intake kit i'm working on. It's a part i wish i did not have to make but the battery needs to go somewhere.

The only bad part of the airbox is that the air intake is on the right bottom corner at a 45* angle , instead of the left bottom corner . I'll just have to elbow it back around .

I think you mentioned a honda fit battery be a little bit smaller , I'm going to pick one up tomorrow . A bracket for the crossmember should be pretty easy and good to know the stock cables will reach .

 

[Gouky]

The honda fit battery is smaller and lighter and will work fine for this application. I'm using a much smaller battery for my spyder but for the kit I'll use the stock battery just to avoid another $150 cost for the battery itself.