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A Lightweight Flywheel Failure Point

4.1K views 17 replies 13 participants last post by  BottledFedMR2  
#1 ·
My Spyder Caracas has some 350K miles on it.. It's my DD, and it was time at 300K to rebuild a motor..

When I decided to rebuild, I wanted a little more Zip.. I already had the MAF Mod ( Serial number 1! ).. and the next things to add were Cams and a Lightweight Flywheel..

The Cams were Crower Stage 1, and the Flywheel I purchased as New in Box from a Spyder member who decided to go 2ZZ ( Thanks Triz! )..

The Flywheel was a Light Weight Steel.. just what I wanted.. As aluminum kinda gives me the Kreeps..

I have about 40 K on this Flywheel.. and the Clutch had 120K when it went BACK in as used.. all checked out good.. my last Clutch had 175K miles and still looked good when I decided to take it out, I'd figure I toss this clutch back in.. with the new flywheel and Cams.. ( with the fresh rebuild of the Engine and trans..)

Last week on my way to work ( 175 Mile round trip ) my Clutch went from Fine to Fubar in one shift.. Lots of Noise, and would not disengage. I got to finish my drive to work, then back home again with out a clutch.. ( Must shift well or it's over )

I got the Clutch out today, and learned something..

Here is the Clutch Disk..




The Spring Retainer broke, and let the Spring Come out.. There are actually TWO springs in there.. small one in the Inside of the Larger..

Now for the Flywheel...



As you can see.. the Flywheel has 'Spokes' that hook the Center Section to the Friction Disk Surface..

If you look 'Behind' the Spokes.. you will see where the Small Spring went through the Spoke, and started 'Chewing' the Block..





Nothing fatal happened to this Motor.. this Time..

BUT..

This was not a Failure I ever expected that could have been Fatal to the Block..

Had this been an Aluminum Flywheel, with the Removable Friction Surface, the Spring NEVER could have gotten through to the Block to cause Damage..

I still like the 'Feeling of Comfort' of having a Steel Flywheel, but I'm wonder if anyone that has Mucho Dollars invested in a Motor, might want to choose an Aluminum Flywheel to prevent this as a possible failure scenario for a motor..

Cap
 
#4 ·
On my red car that I baby, I went with a Fidanza aluminum, but with my second car, that I intend to beat on mercilessly, I am going with a steel wheel almost exactly like yours - is that a Competition Clutch 10-lb flywheel? Anyway this near-disaster is making me wonder... But if it were me, I would have pulled over at the first sign of trouble and towed it.
 
#5 ·
Wow. IIRC that was a Competition Clutch lightweight flywheel. I've seen the spring come off on a clutch before, but never make it past the flywheel.

Im running the same flywheel for the 2zz. Makes me wonder if they should weld something to keep those holes closed.
 
#6 ·
What brand clutch disk is that, CAP? In your case I would go with a factory disk, as they have rubber instead of metal springs.
 
#9 ·
I was thinking of making a '1/2 Cut Aluminum Bagel' to put at the center of the Flywheel.. to keep the pieces away from the Block..

'Course.. you have to secure the Bagel Piece to keep it from becoming part of the debris field..

I have two more of this type of Flywheel on my Nissan 300 ZX's.. so I'd like to find a fix for it.. rather than have to replace them..

Cap
 
#12 ·
I can see it now, beautiful forward and aft machined hole fillers epoxied (hi temp) and bolted together with locktite. Springs leaving home happens just not often-----I hope lightning doesn't strike me after writing that.

Second thought weld the forward and aft together, maybe better long term solution.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I think its a one in a million chance that the spring made it through. Play the lotto. Curious too as what clutch disc your using. I think the other one I have seen was Exedy or something. Ill try and search if it comes up.

Looks like RCN had the same problem with his clutch.
 
#14 ·
My problem I believe was installer error, me. This is my current drivetrain.

When I had the 1zz with the competition stage 2 clutch, a piece of the spring broke off and wedge itself into a nook in the disc which then proceeded to make a very deep gouge in the friciton surface of the flywheel. I had an aluminum flywheel with no holes at that time.
 
#11 ·
Gotta stop doing all those clutch dumping, smokie burnouts at stoplights, cap. :p
 
#15 ·
Loose springs can do damage to everything. IMHO the engine is what I would not want damaged. I have had a lot of transmissions out, maybe over one hundred maybe two hundred I never counted and it was long ago. I have seen it more than once but not often. IMHO the chance of winning the lottery is much slimmer.
 
#16 ·
I put a couple dozen track hours on the Fidanza aluminium flywheel without issue. The clutch, also a Fidanza, did not survive as well. Part of the spring broke off and embedded itself into the edge of the retainer. The retainer itself was marred, but still keeping the spring enclosed.

When I did the 2zz swap, I moved over to the Competition Clutch steel flywheel because I have heard of Fidanza flywheels exploding, and I wanted to prevent that.

But, I am not worried because my clutch has no springs in it. That's the solution. :)
 
#17 ·
This thread is improperly labled. It should say "POS Clutch failure". Your flywheel did not fail. If you had been running a quality clutch that wouldn't have failed either. If you look at the way the metal on the sides of the springs is made you can see the issue - they have large holes at the corners and then just bend up the sides. This cheap and easy design has been present on ALL of the ZZ clutch disc failures I have seen where the springs pop out over the years.

And seriously dude - a new clutch disc and pressure plate is under $200 for a stage 1 southbend - how cheap can you possibly be? :)