[dblotii]

Innovative Mounts Failures

With several reports of failed Innovative passenger-side mounts in Spyderchat, I would like to see a summary from everyone who has had this failure, so we can judge if this is something we all need to correct.

If you have had one of these mounts crack, please post the following:

1) 2.0 or 2.4 L
2) approximate peak power
3) how much of your driving was on a race track
4) approximately how many miles did it take for the failure to

Dave

 

[TheMidasTouch]

Hey Dave, it may be hard to gather enough data to really make it worth aggregating. I would let it suffice that "There exists significant enough risk of failure to be worth changing mount component given the ease of fabricating a new one."

1) 2.4L
2) 205-275whp
3) 60% Racing (Time attack, open lapping, etc..)
4) 5k miles to failure

My fix is below. It's essentially two 1/4 plates with three holes drilled cut to shape and welded together. I'm not sure they even need to be welded together. I simply painted it and inspected after the last couple races.

https://imgur.com/a/kxcRo

 

[HeelToeHero]

With several reports of failed Innovative passenger-side mounts in Spyderchat, I would like to see a summary from everyone who has had this failure, so we can judge if this is something we all need to correct.

If you have had one of these mounts crack, please post the following:

1) 2.0 or 2.4 L
2) approximate peak power
3) how much of your driving was on a race track
4) approximately how many miles did it take for the failure to

Dave

1) 2.0L (Stock K20A2)
2) 200 whp, 145 ft-lb
3) 8 autocrosses, 25 track days, 9 drift days, maybe 5 mountain runs.
4) 30k miles

installed with the swap which completed in 11/2014, broken/replaced 5/1/17
Also of note, my rear mount bracket has failed/been replaced with the newer version with the bolt through the subframe and seems to be holding up; and the rear poly mount has failed twice and I have since replaced it with a rubber bushing, a rear trailing arm from an E36 BMW, since rubber has more memory. It seems to be lasting more than poly although allowing more movement initially.

Here's my passenger fix which is almost the same:

 

[gomba]

Someone should make a new thread with a detailed first post w/all the updates over the years of the k-swap. It's too much for someone wanting to do the k-swap to read all these posts. I think we should start over fresh w/a new thread w/updated info.

-G

 

[dblotii]

Another question to those of you who have had mount failures: have you reported the failure to Innovative? Any response from them?

Dave

 

[AbandonMidship!]

Someone should make a new thread with a detailed first post w/all the updates over the years of the k-swap. It's too much for someone wanting to do the k-swap to read all these posts. I think we should start over fresh w/a new thread w/updated info.

-G

Agreed. When I was still doing my swap I was trying to read through this thread because I remembered there being an answer to a question I had somewhere in here. It took a very long time to find it haha and thats coming from someone who has followed the thread so I generally know where the conversations have gone.

 

[dblotii]

Performance Exhaust

Anyone have direct experience with how the exhaust system has effected your performance in you Naturally-aspirated K Swap Spyder? I currently am using the K-Tuned Swap headers modified a bit, with a 2.5" inch intermediate piece containing a Vibrant GESI metallic substrate cat and ending with an OBX cat-back system. My big disappointment is that the OBX is 2.5 inch OD tubing, so it is actually less cross-section area than the rest of my piping, which is 2.5" ID stainless. It looks like I will have to fabricate my own system if I want 2.5 or 3" diameter cat-back system. All of the commercially available ones use the same tubing size as the OBX. Anyone find a better system to use with a K20 or K24? Any documented power gains? My K20 is stock with CAI and running Hondata.

Dave

 

[KseriesPower]

Anyone have direct experience with how the exhaust system has effected your performance in you Naturally-aspirated K Swap Spyder? I currently am using the K-Tuned Swap headers modified a bit, with a 2.5" inch intermediate piece containing a Vibrant GESI metallic substrate cat and ending with an OBX cat-back system. My big disappointment is that the OBX is 2.5 inch OD tubing, so it is actually less cross-section area than the rest of my piping, which is 2.5" ID stainless. It looks like I will have to fabricate my own system if I want 2.5 or 3" diameter cat-back system. All of the commercially available ones use the same tubing size as the OBX. Anyone find a better system to use with a K20 or K24? Any documented power gains? My K20 is stock with CAI and running Hondata.

Dave

it is an undeniable fact that K's make more power on 3" exhaust. Even a bone stock k20a2

Im using a PLM 4-1 budget swap header 2.5" outlet with the flex cutoff going to 3" U-bend exhaust to a 3" inlet magnaflow Camaro/firebird muffler with dual 2.5" outlets (same style as team moon).

 

[frpilot]

Is there any header that has a 3" outlet that mates up to a 3" pipe to a 3" exhaust or are we limited to headers with 2.5" outlet and a 2.5" to 3" pipe to 3" exhaust?

 

[BottledFedMR2]

Is there any header that has a 3" outlet that mates up to a 3" pipe to a 3" exhaust or are we limited to headers with 2.5" outlet and a 2.5" to 3" pipe to 3" exhaust?

Yes, I can have PPE make a 3 inch outlet, that's what I have but research show's the k's work better with a reduction then opening to a 3 inch

 

[frpilot]

Yes, I can have PPE make a 3 inch outlet, that's what I have but research show's the k's work better with a reduction then opening to a 3 inch

So a 2.5" to 3" pipe to full 3" exhaust is the way to go?

 

[BottledFedMR2]

So a 2.5" to 3" pipe to full 3" exhaust is the way to go?

Yes. As they call it ram horn. Its 2.5 to 3. Just has a reducer in it. The header also needs to be a step header which ppe is

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[frpilot]

Yes, I can have PPE make a 3 inch outlet, that's what I have but research show's the k's work better with a reduction then opening to a 3 inch

I just looked at PPE's site and looks like their k swap header comes standard with a 2.5" outlet, in which you then have the option to either buy their testpipe that is 2.5" throughout OR 2.5" to 2.25" reduction pipe. Perfect.

Can you then also have PPE make a testpipe that is 2.5 to 3" or what kind of testpipe are you using with your PPE header with 3" outlet? I'm assuming this optimal power exhaust theory applies to both k20 and k24?

 

[BottledFedMR2]

I just looked at PPE's site and looks like their k swap header comes standard with a 2.5" outlet, in which you then have the option to either buy their testpipe that is 2.5" throughout OR 2.5" to 2.25" reduction pipe. Perfect.

Can you then also have PPE make a testpipe that is 2.5 to 3" or what kind of testpipe are you using with your PPE header with 3" outlet? I'm assuming this optimal power exhaust theory applies to both k20 and k24?

I can have them custom make anything. Including 3 inch exhaust. Im not running a test pipe on my car. I had him make me a custom header with larger runners that merge to a 2.5 inch collector but then the end of the header is 3 inch. I then welded my own exhaust system which is much lighter and smaller than oem or ppe. In Michigan we do not hace emissions testing so I can do whatever I want. But for stake or agruement he will make me a whole system in 3 inch custom made.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[dblotii]

K oil temp?

Question for anyone running an unboosted K20 in road racing or open track events: Is it likely that you can keep your oil temp below 260F using just the OEM oil-to-water cooler? This assumes you have the rest of your cooling system sorted out and working well.

Dave

 

[HeelToeHero]

Question for anyone running an unboosted K20 in road racing or open track events: Is it likely that you can keep your oil temp below 260F using just the OEM oil-to-water cooler? This assumes you have the rest of your cooling system sorted out and working well.

Dave

In my experience no. I have a Setrab double pass oil cooler and the factory oil-to-water and during track days, I can get oil up to 260F in less than 10 minutes, maybe 5 minutes on a hot day. This is going on track around 140F oil, 160F coolant (just warmed up). Stock K20A2, 8500 rev limit. Currently deciding what action to take to keep those temps down...it sucks. I'm not sure why though, doesn't seem like a huge issue with other platform's K20's. Coolant (stock system) stays below 200, or even 190 while getting these oil temps btw.

 

[rcntype]

What size is your setrab core?

I wish I had a temp gauge when I went to the track.

 

[dblotii]

In my experience no. I have a Setrab double pass oil cooler and the factory oil-to-water and during track days, I can get oil up to 260F in less than 10 minutes, maybe 5 minutes on a hot day. This is going on track around 140F oil, 160F coolant (just warmed up). Stock K20A2, 8500 rev limit. Currently deciding what action to take to keep those temps down...it sucks. I'm not sure why though, doesn't seem like a huge issue with other platform's K20's. Coolant (stock system) stays below 200, or even 190 while getting these oil temps btw.

Are you running the RSX OEM aluminum oil pan?

Based on this I am going to mount an oil-air cooler in the pass-side air inlet path. I will also add an Accusump at the same time, I already have the Clockwise-motion baffle, but that is probably not good enough for left sweepers


Dave

 

[dblotii]

Another question: anyone tried using the stock OEM pass-side motor mount with your Kswap? It looks like it could be a direct swap if you keep the bracket from the motor to top bolt (the piece that breaks). The reason would be to reduce vibrations transmitted to the body, and it would probably reduce the stress in the piece that breaks. Not sure of what the downside would be to a softer mount.

Dave

 

[HeelToeHero]

Are you running the RSX OEM aluminum oil pan?

Based on this I am going to mount an oil-air cooler in the pass-side air inlet path. I will also add an Accusump at the same time, I already have the Clockwise-motion baffle, but that is probably not good enough for left sweepers


Dave

I saw these temps with the stock pan + clockwise motion baffle and with my new Moroso pan. Had serious pressure drop and vtec cut with clockwise baffle, 0 issues or drop with Moroso pan, but temp issue persists. I fear it may be because my header is so close to the oil filter and lines over there; I want to make a heat-shield and/or wrap the oil lines/fittings.