<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (WhiteySpidey @ Jul 21 2008, 11:30 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Hi, I have been searching and reading these boards and have gained so much knowledge and info which is most appreciated. Thank you. However, I still would like some advice from the experts here. My car is a 2003 Spyder w/68k. Prior I have owned 3 Celica's all with over 225k and running strong when I sold them. So, my goal here is to try to take good care of this baby. To my disappointment I have no prior records to the car. Here are my questions:

1. From what I've read I want to change my oil over to that German Castrol synthetic oil but I see on the windshield a sticker from one of those Jiffy Lube type places that says Penzoil 10w30. Ugh. At this milage should I change over. I read some say YES and some say NO due to leaks and deposits,etc. If you say YES, then I want to eventually learn to do it myself, but for now will the Toyota dealer or "whoever" put this in for you with the OEM oil filter if you supply it for them?

2. I have no idea what maintainance has been preformed as far as the trans fluid goes. As well as the coolant, air filter, spark plugs, PCV valve, belt, brake fluid, MAF, etc. Should I just change/clean them all? Will a dealer screw me over if I take it in and have them all checked? I can clean the MAF myself according to instructions here, and others I could check if told what to look for, but I read the air filter is hard to get to and I cant disassemble body parts myself.

3. My car's "Diaper" is ragged and needs to come off or be replaced. Is there more of a technical term for this so I may search for a new one? I've read both the pro's and con's of leaving it off or replacing it. Feel free to try to convince me one way or the other as I'm undecided. I think I want to replace it.

4. My head is hurting from reading about precats, precats, precats, (and che headers). I know my year is not suppose to have this problem, but some say to get rid of them anyway. Yet another thing I can't do myself. How much would this cost, and who to do it IF it is advised? From what I've read I'm leaning toward leaving them alone. Should I just get them "checked out"?

5. Also 02 sensors (I don't even know what this stuff is! haha) , should I be worried about them too?

Sorry, but reading about all this stuff has got me paranoid. I so want to do as much preventative stuff as I can. If I have left anything out that I should do please advise. I wish I had an expert in my area (Austin,TX) to ask for help with all this but after reading all the posts here I think I trust you guys to set me straight and send me to the best places to have this stuff done. Thanks for your consideration![/b]

1. Dont know

2. Can't help you there either

3. I think its called a diffuser but I could be wrong. see if you can find it here

4 & 5. Check them yourself first like this
you can gut them if you want but supposedly no reputable shop will do it so its kind of a DIY thing. I've decided to leave mine be because many have said if there was a problem with them it would have presented itself in the first 40-45,000 miles

gl

 

Welcome!
Firstly you wanna gutt your cats for sure!

Secondly you have a million members in that area that I am sure would be willing to help you learn to do oil change,gutt cats,or whatever.

I am glad to see you have researched so much! That is very rare,thank you for doing that.

Good luck,there is so much to learn. Just stay with it and you will learn what you need to.

Oh and btw "diaper" is the correct term for it,atleast on this site.

 

Any oil change shop will use the filter and oil you bring them; and the honest ones will charge you a lot less, like around $15 total. This is one of those things you can do yourself, but the only reason would be to make sure its done right. If you have an oil change shop you trust, then there's no reason not to use them for every change.

If you are serious about maximizing useful life from your car, get magnetic drain plugs for your oil pan and transmission. The magnetic plugs attract and hold all the tiny metal fragments that get into the fluids from normal wear and tear; which helps prevent major wear and tear. When you change fluids you just wipe off the collected metal. And if you see a lot of metal it lets you know ahead of time to start saving for a big repair.

You may as well replace the precats, or gut them. Your year model is probably safe, but why risk it? Since it sounds like you don't know any mechanics, you will probably want to go with replacement; gutting the existing manifold is illegal for a professional serviceman, and only a mechanic that knows and trusts you is likely to do that.

Cost of a catless header is anywhere from $70 on up to $600 for a PPE header/highflow downpipe combo. I used a $100 ebay model that looks like che's. I bought a better gasket than the one that came with it, $12. And my mechanic did the install for $25. $75 is a more reasonable price to expect for installation; I just have a cheap mechanic... I gave him a nice tip.

Unless the header you buy is the PPE, before you pay there's some common mistakes to check for. You want to make certain they transfered the mounting brackets and heatshields over from the old header. Without the brackets the new header will break, though it may take a few months to happen. The PPE header is very lightweight and is fine without brackets; it doesn't even have a place to put them. The heat shields should not rattle after the install; if they do then you need to have the mechanics fix it, or else you might spend hours to weeks trying to get all the rattles gone tightening things here and there by yourself. **Don't forget to take the old manifold with you** There are many scenarios wherein you might want or need to have the old manifold. The garage can sell it to a platinum reclaimer for about $50 so they might keep it if you don't ask for it.

As far as replacing plugs, MAF, air filter, etc. If you car idles well and you are getting about 27 mpg in town, all that stuff is probably doing its job just fine. The factory plugs are rated for 100k miles. The MAF does need cleaning from time to time. And you need to do the air filter replacement yourself... when a job like that seems too tough to do yourself, just remember this -> If you take it to the shop, they are going to have just as hard a time doing it as you would, but they won't be motivated to do it right or to do it without breaking something else. How would you know they even did it at all?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (WhiteySpidey @ Jul 22 2008, 01:30 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

1. From what I've read I want to change my oil over to that German Castrol synthetic oil but I see on the windshield a sticker from one of those Jiffy Lube type places that says Penzoil 10w30. Ugh. At this milage should I change over. I read some say YES and some say NO due to leaks and deposits,etc. If you say YES, then I want to eventually learn to do it myself, but for now will the Toyota dealer or "whoever" put this in for you with the OEM oil filter if you supply it for them?[/b]

You will be fine to change your oil over. I would run a 5w30 though, but the brands of oil is open to the opinion of the person. Just keep changing your oil and make sure you dont run out by checking it every now and then and you will be fine.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (WhiteySpidey @ Jul 22 2008, 01:30 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

2. I have no idea what maintainance has been preformed as far as the trans fluid goes. As well as the coolant, air filter, spark plugs, PCV valve, belt, brake fluid, MAF, etc. Should I just change/clean them all? Will a dealer screw me over if I take it in and have them all checked? I can clean the MAF myself according to instructions here, and others I could check if told what to look for, but I read the air filter is hard to get to and I cant disassemble body parts myself.[/b]

Trans fluid will be ok (might think about it around 100k miles). coolant will be fine also. Air filter is easy to check, so give it a look. Sparkplug are pretty easy to check also, so give them a look also, but they will most likely be fine. PVC, Break fluid, should be fine. MAF is something you should learn to do. The belt is something they will check when they do your oil or you can give it a look over easy enough.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (WhiteySpidey @ Jul 22 2008, 01:30 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

3. My car's "Diaper" is ragged and needs to come off or be replaced. Is there more of a technical term for this so I may search for a new one? I've read both the pro's and con's of leaving it off or replacing it. Feel free to try to convince me one way or the other as I'm undecided. I think I want to replace it.[/b]

A diaper you can most likely get from someone on here cheap. Alot of us dont even have them on the car anymore.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (WhiteySpidey @ Jul 22 2008, 01:30 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

4. My head is hurting from reading about precats, precats, precats, (and che headers). I know my year is not suppose to have this problem, but some say to get rid of them anyway. Yet another thing I can't do myself. How much would this cost, and who to do it IF it is advised? From what I've read I'm leaning toward leaving them alone. Should I just get them "checked out"?[/b]

I would not waste my money, you already have plenty of miles, I dont think you are going to have an issue. Most places will not gut them for you as I think it may be against the law.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (WhiteySpidey @ Jul 22 2008, 01:30 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

. Also 02 sensors (I don't even know what this stuff is! haha) , should I be worried about them too?[/b]

Not unless you have a code (check engine light), there is not much to check.

 

=-p;./banmeplease

 

Did anyone mention you'll get a hundred different answers to your questions?

I have a "rule" about used cars - change every fluid (oil, gear oil, brake, coolant, clutch- well, clutch might be an exception, that can last forever).

I use and like the German Castrol, but the reality is it is far more important to maintain the fluids (keep 'em full, change 'em regularly) than it is to choose one brand over another. It also depends on what kind of driving you do - short distance driving NEEDS a good synthetic, long distance, not so much.

 

First Thank You for doing your research. At first I was like yeah sure, but after reading your 5 points I can tell you really have done the research and we all do thank you for it.

1. I love the German Castrol. But like said before put in a cheap synthetic for a 1000 miles just to help clean out your engine. Then put in the good stuff. And always change your oil with a new filter.
BTW German Castrol only comes in 0w30.

2. - Trans fluid, I would go ahead and change out to Red Line MT-90. You don't know how the last owner drove the car. You might as well clean it out. Plus you will get the added bonus of the MT-90.
- Coolant, Good for 100,000 miles and really unless the car was on a track it is perfectly fine.
- Air Filter, Spark Plugs, PCV Valve, I would change all 3. Cheap general maintenance. Plus you will probably get a little better MPG.
- Brake Fluid, Go ahead and at least have them bled. You will get a bit firmer pedal and some newer cleaner fluid.
- MAF, Buy some MAF cleaner at your parts store and you should be able to clean it with no problems.

3. Diaper, I would leave it off. That's just me. If you REALLY want one then put out a WTB ad in the Private Sales section. You should be able to pick one up cheap.

4. No one is safe from Precats. Don't take the chance. Either find a shady shop or a friend that could gut them for you. It only take simple tools and a few hours.
Or you can get the HP boost and buy Che's Header. Then you don't have to gut and a not-so-shady shop might install it for you.

5. Nope o2 sensors are fine. They don't need changed unless they go bad and you will get a CEL (Check Engine Light) if they do go bad.


Don't be sorry at least you have done your research.


Welcome to SC and don't forget to gut your precats.

 

Some conflicting advice, but this is a great learning thread anyway.

Regarding precats on 03+ models...I personally don't think there is any hurry. However, there is slowly accumulating evidence that some are beginning to deteriorate. Not badly, but still it is worrisome. What is lacking is any reports of engine failure. Well, maybe one in the UK.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Mark G @ Jul 22 2008, 10:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Some conflicting advice, but this is a great learning thread anyway.

Regarding precats on 03+ models...I personally don't think there is any hurry. However, there is slowly accumulating evidence that some are beginning to deteriorate. Not badly, but still it is worrisome. What is lacking is any reports of engine failure. Well, maybe one in the UK.[/b]

At least one report here in the UK, Ekona i think. I bought an 06 car with 12 delivery mileage on it, i had a che header on it before it had done 200miles, quite simply a che and fittting will cost you a couple of hundred bucks, a new engine will cost a hell of a lot more, why risk it?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (nelix @ Jul 22 2008, 11:17 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Mark G @ Jul 22 2008, 10:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Some conflicting advice, but this is a great learning thread anyway.

Regarding precats on 03+ models...I personally don't think there is any hurry. However, there is slowly accumulating evidence that some are beginning to deteriorate. Not badly, but still it is worrisome. What is lacking is any reports of engine failure. Well, maybe one in the UK.[/b]

At least one report here in the UK, Ekona i think. I bought an 06 car with 12 delivery mileage on it, i had a che header on it before it had done 200miles, quite simply a che and fittting will cost you a couple of hundred bucks, a new engine will cost a hell of a lot more, why risk it?
[/b][/quote]


For a Scotsman to spend money on something it MUST be serious, get that header or those cats out NOW!

Welcome to the site

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Mark G @ Jul 22 2008, 10:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Some conflicting advice, but this is a great learning thread anyway.

Regarding precats on 03+ models...I personally don't think there is any hurry. However, there is slowly accumulating evidence that some are beginning to deteriorate. Not badly, but still it is worrisome. What is lacking is any reports of engine failure. Well, maybe one in the UK.[/b]

Yeah but once they start going it's only a matter of time...

Anyway my advice is to learn to do all of this stuff yourself. You're going to save tons of money, have a better end result, and will feel satisfied knowing you did it. Seriously though mechanics don't give a crap about your car and don't know what they're doing a lot of times.

That list where you said PCV trans fluid etc. Change/clean it all yourself. It shouldn't be that much to do, most expensive bit I can remember is the trans fluid which would be around 40 bucks if you got redline MT90 (good stuff).

 

Thank you for educating yourself before posting.

1. I run german castrol with a toyota filter, no problems and the engine sounds a little quieter and smoother

2. The coolant should be fine, the spark plugs are good for 100k miles according to Toyota. I would get the brakes bled and go ahead and change the transmission fluid. A good oil change place can take a quick look at your belt and tell you if it is good or not. If you want to inpect it yourself, look for cracks in the ribs of the belt, if there is a lot of cracks, replace it. The MAF is an easy job. I would clean it once a year depending on how much you drive. You're looking for gunky buildup on the sensor. Don't scrub the sensor, let the MAF cleaner do the work.

3. I run without a diaper on my car, there is debate wether it affects airflow through the engine bay, but a lot of people have run without one for a long time without problems.

4. I would go ahead and gut the pre-cats for safe measure. If you don't want to tackle this job, you can buy a header and have a shop install it for you. Just don't mention anything about emmissions or pre-cats.

5. I wouldn't worry about the o2 sensors until you get a trouble code from the check engine light.

If you have any other questions, just PM any of us and we'll help point you in the right direction.

Happy Spydering

 

I agree with the responses from the person from KY just before me.
1. you can bring better oil to the toyota dealer or who ever changes it - just use a good filter (toyota is fine - but not FRAM). Synthetic is worth it.
2. bleed them brakes, and change that trans oil if it hasn't been done. Clean the drains from the convertible top area if it hasn't been done.
3. gut the pre cats ( or replace with header) may not be critical on 2003 or newer, but better safe than sorry and you'll likely pick up about 1 mile per gallon.
4. No diaper - no problem - they were optional in Japan.
5. If you have questions, ask. Spyderchat is probably about as nice as it gets, but people will expect you to use search.
Enjoy!

 

Balpo brought up a good point about the soft top drains that everyone forgot. There is a write-up on here about it.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (WhiteySpidey @ Jul 22 2008, 01:30 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Hi, I have been searching and reading these boards and have gained so much knowledge and info which is most appreciated. Thank you. However, I still would like some advice from the experts here. My car is a 2003 Spyder w/68k. Prior I have owned 3 Celica's all with over 225k and running strong when I sold them. So, my goal here is to try to take good care of this baby. To my disappointment I have no prior records to the car. Here are my questions:

1. From what I've read I want to change my oil over to that German Castrol synthetic oil but I see on the windshield a sticker from one of those Jiffy Lube type places that says Penzoil 10w30. Ugh. At this milage should I change over. I read some say YES and some say NO due to leaks and deposits,etc. If you say YES, then I want to eventually learn to do it myself, but for now will the Toyota dealer or "whoever" put this in for you with the OEM oil filter if you supply it for them?

2. I have no idea what maintainance has been preformed as far as the trans fluid goes. As well as the coolant, air filter, spark plugs, PCV valve, belt, brake fluid, MAF, etc. Should I just change/clean them all? Will a dealer screw me over if I take it in and have them all checked? I can clean the MAF myself according to instructions here, and others I could check if told what to look for, but I read the air filter is hard to get to and I cant disassemble body parts myself.

Follow my rule and change all fluids, you don't know what the other driver/s was diong but if you must hold back then engine oil, coolant, trans fluid and a brake bleed are definitely in order. Cleaning the MAF definitely makes the car feel better. The trick to getting to the air filter is a prying behind the airbox with flat screwdriver.

3. My car's "Diaper" is ragged and needs to come off or be replaced. Is there more of a technical term for this so I may search for a new one? I've read both the pro's and con's of leaving it off or replacing it. Feel free to try to convince me one way or the other as I'm undecided. I think I want to replace it.

Like you I hated the idea of running without a diaper but my car did not come from Japan with it and Senior Spydey Chatters gave me an earful. I've run my car without it for over eighteen months...no probs except a dusty engine at too soon intervals and some splashing duing wet weather. But really on reflection I couldn't see myself removing a diaper with any joy at every oil change.

4. My head is hurting from reading about precats, precats, precats, (and che headers). I know my year is not suppose to have this problem, but some say to get rid of them anyway. Yet another thing I can't do myself. How much would this cost, and who to do it IF it is advised? From what I've read I'm leaning toward leaving them alone. Should I just get them "checked out"?

Listen to the Gods of precats. My 03 car has about 40k miles(70k km) on it and I gutted mine recently and I'm glad I listened. My leftside precat showed signs of deterioration.

5. Also 02 sensors (I don't even know what this stuff is! haha) , should I be worried about them too?

Don't worry about your O2 sensors they will tell you when they are done.

Sorry, but reading about all this stuff has got me paranoid. I so want to do as much preventative stuff as I can. If I have left anything out that I should do please advise. I wish I had an expert in my area (Austin,TX) to ask for help with all this but after reading all the posts here I think I trust you guys to set me straight and send me to the best places to have this stuff done. Thanks for your consideration![/b]

 

great advice in here with the more experenced chiming in and i like that

 

Wow, thanks so much guys. So nice to have expert advise at your fingertips. It has really given me the motivation to learn to do alot of this myself (I'm not a Diva afraid to get her hands dirty). My last cars engines were in the front and I was used to them and everything was right there and easy to check fluids, hoses, belts, change air filters etc. I think I was a little intimidated by the engine in the back and so different from before...everything looked so hard to get to. Plus my last Celica's were a 1974, 1977, and a 1992. Things have really changed alot since then. But I'm not skeeeered, I will learn! My first project will be to change the oil to the cheaper synthetic like suggested for the first 1k or so, then change over to the good stuff. I think I will feel better eventually servicing the whole thing (myself hopefully), just to be safe, ya never know and it can't hurt. Then I will move on to deciding on the cats/header. I will keep referring back to this advise. Maybe I'll post some pics of my endeavors. PS. I haven't heard much about those magnetic drain plugs before, do most use them? PS. Does removing the cats, or replacing header make the car sound different? Louder?

 

A magnetic drain plug would be good. I never found one locally though and just didn't feel like ordering off the net.

Che's header doesn't change much but gutting the precats will make things a wee bit 'meaner'.

 

Changing the oil in the spyder is just as easy as any of your celica's. Think of the spyder as a backwards celica, so that it doesn't intimidate you. Get some car ramps if you don't already have a set, as that will make a lot of jobs easier.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (nocoolname @ Jul 23 2008, 03:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Changing the oil in the spyder is just as easy as any of your celica's. Think of the spyder as a backwards celica, so that it doesn't intimidate you. Get some car ramps if you don't already have a set, as that will make a lot of jobs easier.[/b]

It's easier then most cars IMO. The filter doesn't require you to reach down in a tight spot. Yes get ramps if you don't have any already.

This car as a whole is actually quite easy to work on though to be honest.

 

Yes to Ramps. Don't buy the metal ones - there are plastic ones that you can buy at Wal-Mart and other big box places. I've had mine for over 15 years and I'd never go back to the metal ones (which rust) and weigh more. I think mine were called Rhino Ramps, but the labels are long gone.

Since you bought it used and don't know how well it was treated - I'd spend $4 to $7 for a bottle of Techron (most big auto parts stores and Wal Mart Etc carry it). put it in the gas tank then fill it with gas and not refill until the yellow fuel warning light comes on. I'd also do this on a day I have a lot of 80mph interstate driving to be done. The cleaning of injectors and valves is worth the $, especially if they are gunked up.

Enjoy.