[turboz523]

very interesting, what kind of gains does that offer over the stock rbb, and dyno comparisons? Does the cable driven t.b. bolt up to that or does it need an adapter?

 

[Codename Bil Doe]

The k24 version I have was done by a pro welder friend and looks amazing. He touched up the welds on the k20 version.

As for engine maps, 100% of maps need to be tuned to your setup. The kpro base maps are fine. If you fully tuned your car and changed one component (intake, header, etc) you need to retune the fueling again.

For testing, I only changed the intake manifold and nothing else. I retuned fuel to each manifold. Otherwise zero changes in the tune for intake tube, spark, vtec, vtc, or exhaust. This gave a direct apples-to-apples comparison.

I tested RSP vs PRB vs RBB. PRB was the baseline.

On the k20, the modded RBB made on average 10-15 whp/wtq more than the PRB from 2500-6500. RBB was equal on hp/tq to the PRB to 8500. No porting or gasket matching done to either.

I used the Karcepts adapter to mount the tb. The RBB intake angle is crazy, so that takes some fab work with elbows.

 

[Codename Bil Doe]

The volume of the plenum in the RBB is way too small for a K24. The 06+ RBB is only 1.7L. This was not a mistake by Honda.

 

[turboz523]

How did the RSP compare? Also if the vtc wasn't part of the adjustment between intakes it seems to me that there should be larger gains to be had once that is changed

 

[Codename Bil Doe]

On the vtc, I do not disagree on the possibility. But, correcting for fueling and eliminating all other factors, there was no disputing the gains.

On the k20, the car felt amazing at 2500. I've never felt an NA 4cyl that was torquey so low. When I switched back to the PRB I thought something was damaged in the engine for a day or two because it lost so much low end. Then I remembered the intake swap.

RSP is 15whp+ above 7500. Take dyno graph and keep the line linear from 7k up. That's the RSP effect.

Surprisingly, it was equal to the PRB until 7k. Useless for a k24. You don't want to spin above 7500.

 

[BigBearBigButt]

Does anyone know if K series supercharger fit in the spyder?

 

[20v_lover]

Does anyone know if K series supercharger fit in the spyder?

I have see pics on google of a charger setup. The firewall was cut and boxed to make the charger fit and obviously easy access.

 

[20v_lover]

On the vtc, I do not disagree on the possibility. But, correcting for fueling and eliminating all other factors, there was no disputing the gains.

On the k20, the car felt amazing at 2500. I've never felt an NA 4cyl that was torquey so low. When I switched back to the PRB I thought something was damaged in the engine for a day or two because it lost so much low end. Then I remembered the intake swap.

RSP is 15whp+ above 7500. Take dyno graph and keep the line linear from 7k up. That's the RSP effect.

Surprisingly, it was equal to the PRB until 7k. Useless for a k24. You don't want to spin above 7500.

PRB PRC cannot compare to the rsp for fitment and powerband great low nm to high. I fit allot of cl9 accords with them. Obviously in South Africa is easier to find as the local FN2 Type r guys all upgrades to the RRC and then sell the RSP
on to the accord guys.

It's good bang for buck upgrade on the Kswap Spyder as fitment is hardly and issue. The power peaked at roughly
7400 to 7800 on the accords and most of the guys would hardly rev stock k24 sub assembly over 7800 rpm.

The price of a new RSP at Honda is ridiculous

 

[20v_lover]

How many of the guys had their outer dss shafts SNAP ?
Mine snapped on Friday first day at the track and it seems the outer CV portion that uses the Toyota outer is just way too thin. I am waiting for DSS to respond to me shafts has been in the car for less than 5 months.

Iam thinking of just getting someone to machine the Toyota hubs to fit the larger Honda CV outers.

Has anyone done something like this before ?

 

[Codename Bil Doe]

@20v_lover PRB is very compact. You should try a modded RBB. You wouldn't think twice about going back to any of the others, especially on a k24.

If you want cheap RSP's, search ebay.co.uk . Normally $200-300 shipped.

 

[TheBerrynator]

Did you drive the tranny before installing it? Could be synchros or incorrectly adjusted linkage. Also, don't use Honda tranny fluid. 2nd gear grind is factory standard issue. If you didn't install a clutch type diff then switch to Amsoil Synchromesh. It will take care of any grinding caused by fluid.

The RBB intake stalls above 6-6500 rpm because its plenum volume is only 1.7L. The plenum has to be equal to or larger than the displacement of the engine.

I have a modded RBB intake with an additional chamber welded on that increased the plenum to 2.5L. It still makes RBB torque but now makes power to 8500.

I made a 2nd one, so this one is available. It was tested on a k20a2 so I trimmed off the water passage. Ktuned sells a water bypass adapter if you are interested in this manifold. PM me.

You do not want a k20 manifold. You lose the torqur from the RBB, and the good ones make power above 7500. I've tested them - PRB, RSP, RBC (RRC is overhyped. See RSP).

You don't want to spin a stock k24 to 8500. You can calculate piston speeds vs k20.

I didn't do a clutch type transmission. Looks like some Amsoil synchromesh is going to be on order. Didn't drive the transmission before buying. It was a cheap mystery transmission, so I'm not going to complain. Probably will just drive it for now, recheck the linkage and maybe do synchros over the winter if the fluid doesn't help.

May PM you about that intake.... Don't plan to rev it too high for the reasons you mention, it's currently just at the stock setting in kpro (7600 iirc) and I don't really plan to go higher.

Highest priority is quieting down the sound... Can't drive for long without earplugs. Exhaust is probably some of it, but it's much louder inside the car than it is standing directly behind.

 

[20v_lover]

How many of the guys had their outer dss shafts SNAP ?
Mine snapped on Friday first day at the track and it seems the outer CV portion that uses the Toyota outer is just way too thin. I am waiting for DSS to respond to me shafts has been in the car for less than 5 months.

Iam thinking of just getting someone to machine the Toyota hubs to fit the larger Honda CV outers.

Has anyone done something like this before ?

Just a heads up.

K Swap 3rd Gen Toyota MR2 Spyder Rear Wheel Hub

Check out the high performance N1 Source Custom Rear Wheel Hub Set for K-Swapped K20 K24 Toyota MR2's.

n1-source.com

These are available for the guys that wants to make use of stock kseries shafts. Like i said the Toyota outer is too thin and the slightly thicker Honda outer will definitely be more robust.

Other befits are that the swap will be cheaper and the oem kseries shafts is available at your local parts store.

I was forced to look for something else the price of the upgraded DSS shafts is a nice some of money that i would rather use to forge my motor.
Dss did say they would repair my axel but the price for shipping till there and back to South Africa is ridiculous esp that i think that there is 99 percent chance of it happening again.

 

[LCubed]

So with these hubs do the RSX Type S driveshafts have the correct length or is there another OE K series set of driveshafts that are the correct length? I have a set of Type S driveshafts but I haven’t hung the motor in the chassis yet so I can’t check. This does sound like the path I would try go down, especially if I already have the right axles.

 

[20v_lover]

So with these hubs do the RSX Type S driveshafts have the correct length or is there another OE K series set of driveshafts that are the correct length? I have a set of Type S driveshafts but I haven’t hung the motor in the chassis yet so I can’t check. This does sound like the path I would try go down, especially if I already have the right axles.

That is something i have not verified yet as iam waiting for customs to release my parts that i ordered.
But from what i can see is that there is a spacer with the shaft which from what i can see fits between the outer and the hub.

I also assume these are based on the longer shaft because most of these swaps was done with the shorter intermediate shaft. They do sell the shafts they are currently using in their car as well for a fairly cheap rate that is the correct size.

I would most be making up stronger spare shafts as well and will change it at the track. This was the first time ever that i could not drive my car home from the track and i do not want a repeat lol esp for the same part.

 

[BottledFedMR2]

We have started making our own axles to combat that DSS issue. They are not ready yet but I have ordered 200 sets. Prices at $450 a set. The hub using the rsx is a great idea but off the shelf axles do brake. Im trying to make a simple solution by fixing the problem and addressing it and not re-inventing the wheel. Its like the same problem as the Innovative mounts

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[BottledFedMR2]

That is something i have not verified yet as iam waiting for customs to release my parts that i ordered.
But from what i can see is that there is a spacer with the shaft which from what i can see fits between the outer and the hub.

I also assume these are based on the longer shaft because most of these swaps was done with the shorter intermediate shaft. They do sell the shafts they are currently using in their car as well for a fairly cheap rate that is the correct size.

I would most be making up stronger spare shafts as well and will change it at the track. This was the first time ever that i could not drive my car home from the track and i do not want a repeat lol esp for the same part.

The issue withis as well is no no longer have abs i believe, which means no speedometer

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[dblotii]

I didn't do a clutch type transmission. Looks like some Amsoil synchromesh is going to be on order. Didn't drive the transmission before buying. It was a cheap mystery transmission, so I'm not going to complain. Probably will just drive it for now, recheck the linkage and maybe do synchros over the winter if the fluid doesn't help.

May PM you about that intake.... Don't plan to rev it too high for the reasons you mention, it's currently just at the stock setting in kpro (7600 iirc) and I don't really plan to go higher.

Highest priority is quieting down the sound... Can't drive for long without earplugs. Exhaust is probably some of it, but it's much louder inside the car than it is standing directly behind.

Which motor mounts are you using? I got rid of my Innovative 75 durometer ones and it made a huge difference. Just going OEM on the pass-side makes a huge difference.

Dave

 

[Codename Bil Doe]

The issue withis as well is no no longer have abs i believe, which means no speedometer

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You can have working speedo without abs. You have to pull the signal from the VSS output of the K20 ecu and run it to the combination meter.

Please post updates regarding your axles. The benefits of the n1-source axles are thickness and (mostly) price. If stock Honda axles can be used I'd buy the hubs in a second.

 

[BottledFedMR2]

You can have working speedo without abs. You have to pull the signal from the VSS output of the K20 ecu and run it to the combination meter.

Please post updates regarding your axles. The benefits of the n1-source axles are thickness and (mostly) price. If stock Honda axles can be used I'd buy the hubs in a second.

Only if your using the rsx trans. Most guys opt for the civic si trans which you can use the vss from a 02-04 rsx but you need to open the case and install the countershaft ring (cheap part) then tap and drill some holes for the sensor to mount.

The hubs they make do use the honda axles. I have to make custom axles because 99% of these swap are done in a garage for weekend warrariors who dont have a press. My theory is if i can make a set of reliable treated axles for a sustained 600 whp. The ease of the swap will be maintained. Otherwise your looking at $250 for hubs, then bearings and axles and labor. Likely more than 450 total cost

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[Codename Bil Doe]

Only if your using the rsx trans. Most guys opt for the civic si trans which you can use the vss from a 02-04 rsx but you need to open the case and install the countershaft ring (cheap part) then tap and drill some holes for the sensor to mount.

This is not correct. The signal for the VSS to the MR-S multiplexor can come from multiple locations. In all instances, the multiplexor needs to see a pulsed signal which, in stock form, comes from the Hall sensors on the wheels and is combined into one via the abs module:


1) For 02-04 ECU, the signal can be taken from pin 3 of the C101 plug and sent directly to the MR-S multiplexor.

2) Just because you use Civic Si transmission does not mean you cannot get a VSS signal. The VSS signal is mandatory for VTEC to work. Only with KPro can you bypass this by setting the VSS signal to always be 65mph. The downside to this technique (we use it on one of our race cars) is that the reverse lockout is always engaged.

If, unlike above with the 02-04 ecu, you use an 05-06 RSX ecu (which is not supported by Hondata), you can take the VSS out signal from ECU pin E26 and send it directly to the MR-S multiplexor.

3) The pulsed signal can also come directly from one of the wheel sensors. You would just have to tap into one of the wires. This is how aftermarket ABS and traction control systems work. It would be recommended to pull the signal from a rear wheel sensor. The signal can be sent directly to the multiplexor.

A Dakota Digital can be used to correct the speedo reading for incorrect pulses and tire diameters.



The benefit of using stock Honda axles is that, after the initial cost, replacements are inexpensive and reliable. We have endurance raced OEM Honda axles in 3hr, 6hr, and 25hr races for multiple years without failure.

I still need to buy a set of your Wilwood kits f&r, but I'm in the middle of some other testing first.