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Well last time I talked to him, he is re-creating the entire mounting bracket for the shifter. The problem I found is with the Inn stuff the cables were to long. He's making one to retro fit the 06+ civic si trans. I have the TRD short shifter and mine isn't on the road but I 've shifted it and it seems tight not loose.


I have one question. I see everyone order these adapter for the clutch line, to my knowledge the hose fitting's are all the same size, why can't you just mate the clutch line further down the line?
 
#7. I used a simple push on fitting from Russell that worked on the stock fuel feed line which made it a -6 AN to the Innovative Fuel rail. I kept it returnless. So far I am able to support 196whp and 166wtq on a dynojet with 80% max on duty cycle(stock RSX-S injectors - 310cc) with the returnless setup. This is a super cheap and easy way to go about it if you are going to be making light power.
196 whp seems little low to me... I'd think you'd be in the 210 range
 
With a 25 degree wheel and a choker of an exhaust the gains are minimal in the mid and you'll see about 4-8whp and 2-6tq from 5,000 to 7500.

From a good k24a2 with a 50 degree wheel, good intake and good exhaust i've seen as much as 15whp and 12 tq in the midrange and about 10whp/7 tq peak. It definitely transforms the powerband after 5,000 RPM.

PRB's have shown me about half of that as far as gains go.

Sean is on my best friends. We work about a minute away from each other. He too is excited to drive a K MR2.
 
With a 25 degree wheel and a choker of an exhaust the gains are minimal in the mid and you'll see about 4-8whp and 2-6tq from 5,000 to 7500.

From a good k24a2 with a 50 degree wheel, good intake and good exhaust i've seen as much as 15whp and 12 tq in the midrange and about 10whp/7 tq peak. It definitely transforms the powerband after 5,000 RPM.

PRB's have shown me about half of that as far as gains go.

Sean is on my best friends. We work about a minute away from each other. He too is excited to drive a K MR2.
Did Sean build your IM? I'm stuck with the PRB until I can get one made. I feel that's m hold back as far as this engine goes. I can't cut my firewall due to the roll cage.
 
The adjustment just moves the shifter location to "center". The throw length is not at all adjustable. I noticed that the 2-3 shift is very tight and caught myself going to 5th plenty of times. On the track I don't see that as being an issue but I can imagine myself failing at it when drag racing.
I was referring to changing the mounting points on the cantilever itself to change throw length. Not the red rod.

But since it controls fore and aft positions, it wouldnt do anything in spacing out the gates left to right
 
Did Sean build your IM? I'm stuck with the PRB until I can get one made. I feel that's m hold back as far as this engine goes. I can't cut my firewall due to the roll cage.


Nah, Sean hasn't done a K manifold yet. maybe this winter i'll collaborate something with him that'll fit in the tight space. I plan on testing the PRB and Skunk2 on the K24a2. I'll get it up to the 220-230 range by mid September.
 
Nah, Sean hasn't done a K manifold yet. maybe this winter i'll collaborate something with him that'll fit in the tight space. I plan on testing the PRB and Skunk2 on the K24a2. I'll get it up to the 220-230 range by mid September.
I read and talked to some auto testing guys the Skunk2 is a glorified RBC from what they told me. LMK if you want help on the IM if you and sean make one. I was going to make one but if we can collectively make it, it might come out better. I have a couple of extra manifold here we can play with.
 
I read and talked to some auto testing guys the Skunk2 is a glorified RBC from what they told me. LMK if you want help on the IM if you and sean make one. I was going to make one but if we can collectively make it, it might come out better. I have a couple of extra manifold here we can play with.
I have to dig through the computer but i did a back to back on an RBC vs. Skunk2 on a bolt ons k20z1 and lost some midrange and picked a couple hp up top. The gains were only for the last 500-700 of the graph and the torque curve lost its nice midrange.

On a K24 with bolt ons the skunk2 over the RBB shined all over the graph from 4k to 7500 but the engine didn't have a 50 degree wheel. Had it had the vtc gear i'm sure it would've rocked out even more torque in the midrange. Gains were in the 6-8whp peak range with about 10-12 whp in some areas in the midrange. Torque gains were similar.


After I conduct some testing on what fits, i'll consider doing a manifold but for such a small market and everyone trying to do one but not able to complete it yet....it looks like efforts in R&D would be a waste until more of these cars pop up with their swaps running. I'm sure there will be more bugs to work out before people are worried about finding more power.


On a sidenote my axles are due Friday and i'm off to the track Monday to fix the car and test it at Gingerman. If the car works and goes anywhere close to the 1:46's on it's first time out i'd consider it a 10/10 success. Lap times will have plenty to do with setup and driver and both of those suck.
 
Pro Series. The only setups that I've used with the Ultra have been either very high output turbo setups(Both K and B) and I've worked with a couple Ultra manifolds on high output all motor K's.

As far as the midrange goes...don't let so much of the internet hearsay get the best of you. I am usually able to squeeze out more torque and HP in the midrange with an RBC over an RBB as long as the rest of the breathing setups are good.
 
Pro Series. The only setups that I've used with the Ultra have been either very high output turbo setups(Both K and B) and I've worked with a couple Ultra manifolds on high output all motor K's.

As far as the midrange goes...don't let so much of the internet hearsay get the best of you. I am usually able to squeeze out more torque and HP in the midrange with an RBC over an RBB as long as the rest of the breathing setups are good.
I've heard the 50 degree wheel isn't good for highly modded engines. I hear you want to keep it around 40-45 degrees. Any truth to that
 
Only on built motors will you have to worry about P2V from a 50 degree cam. I've never seen it happen to a stock motor.

On a built motor, you have to clay it to see your tolerances.
This man know's whats up.

Most large aftermarket cam setups on stock bottom ends usually limit you to about 40 degrees. Aftermarket pistons have larger reliefs so you can run more angle but its' just like any other engine. Make sure your clearances are happy and you should be good to go. But stock for stock you can go 50 degrees on any vtec piston(the good vtec, not the generic k20a3 style) and any oem cam combo.
 
Looking forward to an update on Gingerman Mikey. I'm from South Bend before I moved to Vegas so I've been to Gingerman a few times. I have a friend who works at South Bend Clutch and runs his 350z there occasionally now.
 
This man know's whats up.

Most large aftermarket cam setups on stock bottom ends usually limit you to about 40 degrees. Aftermarket pistons have larger reliefs so you can run more angle but its' just like any other engine. Make sure your clearances are happy and you should be good to go. But stock for stock you can go 50 degrees on any vtec piston(the good vtec, not the generic k20a3 style) and any oem cam combo.
I thought even OEM K24a2's couldnt run 50*?
 
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